Model years & difference in handling?
Hi, my name is Val and I'm new. I'm trying to figure out what year 911/912 to buy for track days and weekends. I like 911s before 1989. My 911 books list changes from year to year, but don't really explain their effect on handling. My priorities in order are (1) Handling (2) Reliability (3rd) Power. I don't care about comfort or modern convenience. If anybody's willing to field my questions or point me to a resource I'd appreciate it.
1. Can an old 911 be updated to handle as well as a newer 911?
2. What years resulted in a "quantum-leap" in handling?
3. Are there years that are too old to update their handling?
4. Years that would be stupid to modify, i.e. fender flares?
5. Are there years that are so old they're ridiculously expensive to maintain, difficult to find parts for, and undesirable to race? In other words, strictly collectables.
Thanks, Val
Re: Model years & difference in handling?
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Originally posted by Val
Hi, my name is Val and I'm new. I'm trying to figure out what year 911/912 to buy for track days and weekends. I like 911s before 1989.
You do realize that most people on this forum prefer the pre-'74 vintage 911, no? You might find more info on the newer 911s on the Pelican Parts forum.
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1. Can an old 911 be updated to handle as well as a newer 911?
Define "newer". Up to '89 they were all torsion bar suspension, so yes, I would say any pre-89 can be equalized. In '90, they went to coilovers, which was better, but you can update an early car to coilovers, too. With the 993 in '94-95, the rear suspension was improved from the original semi-trailing arm design, and this would be a difficult thing to update an older car to. There is no doubt that the best handling 911 is the latest one you can buy, namely the GT3-RS, and you are never going to be able to easily make an older car handle as well. For a more inexpensive track car, I would consider the 90-94 C2 as a base, as it has the 3.6 engine, coilovers and the G-50 tranny already.
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2. What years resulted in a "quantum-leap" in handling?
The only "quantum length" change previous to '89 was the change in wheelbase in 1969. For the later cars, see above.
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3. Are there years that are too old to update their handling?
No, but I would say the '65-'68 SWB cars cannot be changed to the longer wheelbase without a lot of work and expense, and the SWB cars are getting rarer and perhaps should be preserved. They have a certain "uniqueness" to their handling which can be an advantage in some situations.
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4. Years that would be stupid to modify, i.e. fender flares?
I wouldn't differentiate this by year, but by condition. I don't think you should modify any pre-'74 which is in original, unmolested condition when you find it, but that is just an opinion. There are plenty of unloved '74-77 cars to strip if you're going to make a track car.
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5. Are there years that are so old they're ridiculously expensive to maintain, difficult to find parts for, and undesirable to race? In other words, strictly collectables.
Once again, I would say this depends on condition and not year. All Porsches are expensive to maintain, difficult to find parts for, and they are all fun to race. But to be collectible, it must either be an original and unmolested example, or a vintage racer with a documented history.
YMMV,
TT
Re: Model years & difference in handling?
Quote:
Originally posted by Val
4. Years that would be stupid to modify, i.e. fender flares?
5. Are there years that are so old they're ridiculously expensive to maintain, difficult to find parts for, and undesirable to race? In other words, strictly collectables.
It's getting so that nice, original, old 911s are getting to be pretty hard to find. I would have to suggest that if a pre-'74 911 has survived unmolested to this day, it should be preserved (i.e. no flares). Particularly the Ss, Es, Ls and the '65s and '66s.
Just about any Porsche has some frightfully expensive parts, and probably some bargain parts, too. On the short wheelbase cars, for instance, there are two front suspension bushings that cost $250 each. On the other hand, the other bushings are much easier and cheaper to change than the long wheelbase cars'.
I cannot find it right now...
but TT, you need to repost a pic of "Mr. Smooth's" swb coupe again. I love that car, and I doubt you could roll a tennis ball under it. Please....
Shawn.