Thanks Chuck. I believe this is more appropriate.
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Thanks Chuck. I believe this is more appropriate.
Dave,
Here is the Kroon circuit diagram, which should match the harness you got from Dean.
If you are in the US, you need to wire it like this so when the high beam is switched on, the fogs go off. And the fogs can only come on with the low beams and not by themselves.
Hopefully this helps. Will try take some pics tomorrow if not. It’s the blue/white wite you are concerned about?
Ravi
Attachment 527482
Ravi,
Yes, the blue and white wire in the diagram. Specifically how it is connected to ground from the relay. Here it looks as if goes to fuse #1, then turns into brown, heading to chassis ground #7 by the battery... not so clear what that is suppose to look like. The ground wire on Dean's harness is short and wont make it to #7 without a splice, so I guess it should connect near the fuse box? I don't necessarily want to run the USA setup, fogs to shut off with the high beams, because I will likely also run driving lights as well as fogs of the same switch. I'm not planing on sourcing power from the headlight circuit. Just not clear on the grounding.
Attachment 527484
One thing about Dean's harness that's confusing is why the white/yellow power wire to the switch is connected to the white/green #87 normally open contact for the power to the lights? Was wondering before I removed the connector. I presume Dean's harness was original.
Attachment 527483
Hi Dave,
On my car, I added a proper connector with neoprene sleeve to the end of the blue/white wire and that connects to a brown/white wire that is attached at the chassis ground above the driver’s side battery box. Like this.
Attachment 527504Attachment 527505
All my research on original cars shows this to be correct for USA/Canada cars. My car was an original Texas delivery car.
As for your white/yellow joined to white/green, I have not seen that before. It looks like someone modified it so that the yellow/white that comes from fused power provided power directly to the green/white that normally runs through a fuse to the fogs. Maybe they had the yellow/white hooked up to the low beams, so the fogs came on automatically with the low beams? You would not need a relay or fog light switch in that scenario. That was considered cool in the 80’s. Rhat spade connector may have gone to a dash light to show they were on. They would have had to change the low beam fuse rating, but that’s not the way it is supposed to be wired. The spade connector isn't the right factory one, so it is definitely a modification.
You can see in the reference unopened package picture than Steve posted in your WTB Ad that the white/yellow and white/green wires are not joined together, but separate and the ends tinned, just like the Kroon one I used.
Ravi
Ravi,
Thanks I will send it to ground as you have done. Just need to round up some appropriate connectors.
That's the other odd thing about Dean's harness. The solid white and blue/white are switched from what is printed and otherwise seen. You can see here the blue/white wire going to the switch. White ohms to the relay ground 85.
Attachment 527589
Hmmm. Something is wrong. The earlier cars (like a '67) had only Yellow/white and brown, so it's not like this is from an early car. However I note on the Kroon site that '74- had a blue/white going to the switch. Maybe the harness you have is incorrect.
It probably has all the right wires, so you could wire it up logically, tracing the circuit as you have and simply ignore the colour coding. But if you are OCD like me, that won't be acceptable.
Could be the angle but is the chrome surround of stereo fitted upside down in pic in post 8?
Button innards shouldn’t be visible. It is upside down. Now back to our regulalrly scheduled programming...
Out with the wrong..
Attachment 527967
Fitting the more appropriate...
Attachment 527968
I'm really curious about the connection types used in the retrofit kit. I thought it would look similar to this...
Attachment 527962
But from the photo of the kit that was for sale in 2019 maybe not. Instead it seems they used "90degree or flag" 2x 999.652.116.02 connector & 2x 999.652.160.04 sleeve. Also interesting to note: From what I can see it looks like x3 bezels came in the kit, silver, black, and brown. (Only one PN black was listed by the seller at the time) I put PN's to pieces as best I could, but can't figure out what 2x 900.223.004.02 "washer" could be for?
So any help on how to make the wiring look authentic, including where to source these connectors would be great.