Super Clean T w/E engine and 2.2S pistons (not mine)

"All records from new. 3rd owner. Zero rust. Beautiful paint. New 2.4E engine with 2.2S pistons by Felmir Singson and German Precision. Roars. Factory sways, Konis, S brakes, steel S spoiler (also included are standard steel spoiler and carbon fiber S spoiler). Complete factory service manuals. Weidman's wheels. Also included are Recaro EXs in cloth. Spent life in dry New Mexico and Colorado. Now in garage in New Jersey. Only driven 300 miles last two years. Wants to go to good home. $25K firm as already offered $20K unseen. Serviced by Eisenbud's in Denver"
60k miles,
nice tangerine ... looks real nice indeed ....

"Beautiful paint, factory "Blood Orange/Tangerine." Also included are new Recaro SEs in cloth (with hardware) and new Repa retractable belts. New headliner, German dash, and rear glass (heat elements deteriorated over time). Serviced by Eisenbud's in Denver, who can validate car's condition. Gauges refreshed by North Hollywood Speedometer. Extra set of S calipers. Reconditioned rear thermostat for front cooler (didn't install cooler as engine runs 180-200 degrees). Spent life in dry New Mexico and Colorado. Now in garage in New Jersey. Only driven 300 miles last two years. Wants to go to good home. $25K firm as already offered $20K unseen."

Ad is on pca ... it's a 1972 T with an E engine and the ad was updated with remarks about new headliner and German dash, gauges refreshed, REPA retractable belts etc ..
My question, and pls forgive my ignorance, but what is meant by "Reconditioned rear thermostat for front cooler (didn't install cooler as engine runs 180-200 degrees)"?
Thanks,
Karl.

I guess I answered my own question in that the oil cooler accompanies the car, but is not installed and has a reconditioned thermostat.

My other questions, now that my search has begun, are as follow;

is there any issue with having a T body and an E engine? By issue, i mean in terms of value?
If one purchases a 911 with original paint, it is preferable to one repainted, or even worse, repainted in non-original color.
Is this the case as well with replacing factory original engine with upgraded E engine?
PO was from roadrunner region ...
Is it better to get a 70/71 or 73.5, as opposed to 72 (i was reading peter zimmerman's guide to purchasing a used early 911)?

Thanks,

Karl.

Karl,
The most valuable cars will be completely original. A car with a good repaint in the factory color will be worth more than a poor quality original paint car in most cases. A very high quality color change is OK, a poor one is not. A T with upgraded engine should not hurt valuation. It really comes dwn to what you want to drive, don't get to hung up one what the "market" likes.
Phil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pu911rsr

It really comes down to what you want to drive, don't get to hung up one what the "market" likes.
Phil

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AMEN brother!

Nice looking car! My theory on front coolers is a simple one. It's better to have one and seldom use it than to not have one and have the occasional need for one. :)

Point taken Phil. You are right about choosing for what you want and not being concerned about markets valuations etc.
My preference is probably a T, considering my budget ... and my mantra is to get the best T i can afford, rather than buying for potential and restoring.
I prefer original colors, but color is not a dealbreaker.
Rust free and low-ish mileage, in fairly good condition.

In regards to this car, and staying on thread, are there any disadvantages of a 72 vs. 70/71/73.5 .... ???
72 has oil tank flap in rear right quarter, and mainshaft seal inside transmission. 70/71 have weber's and 72 has MFI, 73.5 has CIS.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by karlusmagnus

My other questions, now that my search has begun, are as follow;

is there any issue with having a T body and an E engine? By issue, i mean in terms of value?
If one purchases a 911 with original paint, it is preferable to one repainted, or even worse, repainted in non-original color.
Is this the case as well with replacing factory original engine with upgraded E engine?
PO was from roadrunner region ...
Is it better to get a 70/71 or 73.5, as opposed to 72 (i was reading peter zimmerman's guide to purchasing a used early 911)?

Karl.

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1) I am getting a strong gut feeling that a matching #'s car is going to be one of the most important criteria in valuating these cars in the future.
Granted an upgrade motor is a good thing (better if period correct).
I have talked to big wig collectors about this and I really do get the feeling that matching #'s is going to hold A LOT of weight in the near future.

2) Paint - mainly keep it original color. A high quality change might be okay BUT I do think it hurts the value.

3) 70,71,72,73 - Wow no simple answer here, also are you talking about "T's"?
911T - I'd stick to 72 73
911E - They are all pretty nice - still think 72/73 is the way to go there.
911S - Tough one - 71 S 2.2 woohoo! But really they are all valuable and FUN

Obviously 72 is a unique year and IMO IMO IMO are collectable - more so than the 73 in any model. It's literaly a one of a kind year ya know?

Side note: 73.5 CIS - hmmm good car but IMO IMO IMO - MFI fun factor beats this car hands down. Period.

Bosch MFI IS racing history.
CIS/K-Jectronic has been used on just about every car in the world since it was developed...... boring to me but a reliable system indeed.

If you wanna talk early cars - PM me your #... I have almost 20 years exposure to these things

I'll second alex's comments above. Go with an MFI car that is in a good state of tune, find a color you like and go drive the piss out of the thing.
Phil

To pick between 1971-73 cars comes down to personal preference really. When I bought in 1987 I picked a 1971 T (with Webers). I have been very pleased by the choice. It's a great combination of reliability and driveability. I took a 2,500 mile trip this summer in the car and loved the fact that I could use the entire range of RPMs while driving in different conditions... what i have been told is the MFI cars ('72 and '73) are not as flexible as the Webers. I could drop to 2,000 rpms and not lug the engine. You know they raised the displacement to 2.4 for a reason, right? More smog requirements, means more complexity, means more can go wrong. Also, bigger displacement means worse gas mileage. The other advantage to the '71 is that there are no dorky labels on the dash -- i mean do you really want to see a sign that says "lights" all the time? I find it insulting and clutters the clean black lines of the interior. So I say go for 1971 T. Best all around combination for an early 911.