Front Hood is locked closed

I recently had my 72S painted and began reassembly by affixing the top front "male" hood latch assembly to the top of the hood. After carefully alighing the spring-loaded male end to the female convex recepticle,I proceeded to close the hood. Unfortunately now the hood will not open. When I pull the hood latch cable the hood jumps up slightly but will not open fully. Because the gas tank has not been installed yet I have been able to determine that it is the male spring loaded plunger that is getting caught and not the secondary safety latch. Any advice about how I can get my darn hood open. thanks in advance

You may have to have someone hold the release while you pull the hood. Carefull with fresh paint, it may not be able to handle too much pressure. If you cant get it to open then try shifting the hood left to right while trying to open it. It has happened to me and I wsa alone but I was able to place a pair of the plier's handles in the release pull, and was then able to open my hood. Good luck
-Tommy-

Thanks for the tip. I will try using plyers to hold the latch cable. Movement from side to side may work as well.

In the 911 & 912 restorers guide to authenticity it says that the latches are unique design that releases if the cable breaks or is cut. If you are willing to replace the cable you could cut it?

Charlie

Hello

Does it releas to the first lift ?

Some twistingand forcing on the hood might help.

If you have adjustet to any complete and the thing is jamed and needs very much force.

There are some ways but first would be to find out if the thing is locked anyway.

One way is to unbolt the rear hinges by removing the heater hose. The other is depending on year removing the bumper and drill a hole at the latch.

You don´t need to cut the wire if you pulll and it comes out the lock is free and the part is jamed into that position

Translates to some hours and maybe repainting chiped color

Grüsse

Hello

Sorry had been to fast.

Now your problem is in the spring loaded pluger. It has a littel bulletnose that snaped over the edge and this is now cramped. Much force might lift it over the rear edge. You should find out in witch way. This has nothing to do with the release cable.

If you used the M6 bolts you have the 10 mm heads and can unscrew the lower lock plate front screws. That sometimes help.

If not some force and twisting on the hood can help ( If your peainter didn´t work good or to much bondy then you will have sometimes to repaint the part.

Grüsse

"because the gas tank has not been installed yet"? Maybe some access through that hole? Get in the trunk, maybe unbolt the rear hinges where they join the hood? JUst guessing here...but it may be your lucky day that the gas tank wasn't installed already? Those bolt heads on my '72 take a 13mm wrench by the way, just measured... MAn, good luck!

Hello

Sorry the script here shows only parts of the thread andIi missed that sans fueltank somehow.

Without fueltank it is very easy. I think he got it after a few minutes.

The lower lock plate has 3 M6 bolts two in front and one in the middle rear. Loosing the front ones will give more lift but bends the lock plate a bit and the paint can cip on the rear. but much better then chiping paint from the outher forward hoodedges.

Also inside the look support brace has a big acceshole to use a tool for prying out a slamed hoodlock.
Just wantet to show that the problem is not the cable and cuting that wound change anything except the remounting from a new cable. Without tank you can unscrew that cable too no need to cut.
The problem is the plunger who looks like a bullet. If this isn´t aligned the rear of the plunger will sit inside and not snap over the edge from the hole. bending the hood to the correct direction helps.

And yes the hinges have 13 mm heads up in the hood and in the base.

Grüsse