Couple of wiring questions ('67)

[Silverbullit]

Wiring up drivetrain:
1) starter.
I have one large, black, ring terminal cable from battery
I have a dual-wire, black, ring terminal,
I have a dual -wire, yellow, spade terminal.

How does this connect to the starter? The wiring diagram I have isn't quite clear.

Engine compartment panel:

1 large red/white wire from alternator, connects to junction block, also shares a black wire with a insulated spade connector.

Where does the black wire go?

Thanks

[edmayo]

Large black wire with ring terminal from battery goes to the empty 8 mm stud on the starter solenoid, where it is joined by a large black wire from the same post the red/white wire from alternator attaches to. This is how the alternator charging current gets from the alternator to the post on the starter and then thru the black cable to the battery. The yellow wires attach to terminal 50 at the starter solenoid. The black wire with the insulated spade might be one from the resistor to the by-pass relay? Picture??

[Silverbullit]

Here's a photo, I can't get a closer one…

Starter:
So, if I understand, only 2 terminals are used: the 8mm post for all the black w/ ring wires, and one of the male spades (50) is used for the dual 'yellow' wires.

Engine panel:

The black wire in question is 'siamesed' with the very small ring terminal at the end of the red/whte alternator wire, and appears to just reach the resistor box just next to the fuel pump.

(P.S.-after successful start-up, I'll make more proper-appearing Pertronix wires.

[304065]

Ed is correct- large black from the battery to the M8 stud and the other large black to the terminal block on the console there as well. Make sure you have bright metal, you don't want to go back down there, and use a serrated lock washer and an M8 Nylock (we can't see down there and you sure as shootin' don't want that wire coming loose!) Yellow to the starter of course: that same wire from the ignition switch also runs to the ballast resistor relay (as a yellow).

Brian the junction block is made out of old brittle bakelite. You do NOT want to snap the center fin. So be absolutely certain that the wires you have will fit in the block without interference. If they don't fit and you crank down on the round-head phillips screw SNAP it will go.

All right you've located the red/white from alternator B+. This is a multiple with a red wire covered in black pvc insulation with a right-angle faston connector on the end. It runs, as Ed says, to terminal 30 (+12v) of the Ballast Resistor Relay.

Brian you MUST be absolutely certain you have these connections right before you connect the battery! Personal injury, property damage, Death or damage to a good-looking 911 may result. Any questions: detailed photos here.

[304065]

What is that a Bosch Blue 027 with an MSD box? The black and orange with the modern terminals give it away. You don't want to use a Blue coil with that setup, there is too much internal resistance.

What ignition system again? Seeing two wires attached to the coil positive and to the negative AND the ballast resistor stuff concerns me.

[Silverbullit]

Ok, so I think I've got the starter solved. (not tried to crank yet, though)

The last black wire must then go to the resistor relay, it's the only component not yet wired, and the wire is the perfect length.

No Blue 027 and MSD…it's just a Pertronix.

So on coil terminal 15 is the wire from the ballast resistor and the wire from the distributor

On the other side of the coil is the other distributor wire and the wire to the tach.

I hope.

Thanks guys. I'm sure to have more before I try and fire it.

[304065]

Here's the map I made years ago . . .



Coil 15 is power from the resistor. If you open the resistor box itself (turn the knurled nut counterclockwise) you will see that there are two terminals on one end of the resistor and one on the other end. The end with a single connection gets the wire from the "wye" connector that also powers the fuel pump. The end with the double connection: one wire goes to the Coil 15, that's the only wire it gets. The other wire goes to terminal 87, the normally OPEN contact, of the resistor relay. This way, when the resistor relay isn't energized by the yellow wire, then the resistor takes some voltage out of the circuit to drive the coil. But when the yellow wire is energized when you are cranking, then the relay connects the 30 terminal (with direct feed from the alternator/B+ terminal as you figured out above) with the 87 terminal, bypassing the resistor and sending full battery voltage to the coil 15.

So looking at the bottom coil terminal 1, you have one wire to the tach (good) and one wire to the Points (replaced by the Pertronix.) And to power the Pertronix, you are using the coil 15? OK, but you will end up sending less than +12v there during normal operation.

Even if you are using a Pertronix you will get better performance with a modern Bosch coil, is that what it is? The brown top suggests that it's an older one, what is the internal resistance? The Petronix can handle like seven amps which means you can use a lot less than three ohms primary resistance. Adding the resistor into the mix does complicate it because the resistor is 0.9 ohms and it's in series all the time- you could use a coil with really low primary resistance for better high-rpm performance.

I know you didn't ask for a critique of your ignition system. . .looks great!

[Silverbullit]

Thanks for the diagram…..and by all means critique away.
I'm pretty lousy with electrical stuff.

It is in fact a new, low-resistance Bosch coil disguised to look like a period piece.

Thanks for the help and advice!!!

[Silverbullit]

Ok….so after addressing a couple wiring screw-ups at the ignition switch, it now cranks over and runs the fuel pump like it should…..
tomorrow I'll pre-oil it, and maybe try for spark…..

[304065]

Victory is in sight!

What is the part number on the bottom of your coil? Is it the 924/928/Carrera Version? I am interested.