Clutch pivot broke

[yale]

And it was about a year old. Apparently this is not unusual, though only lasting a year seems a bit extreme. Any comments thoughts or tips? I was right at the top of Manhatten on the Henry Hudson Bridge, luckily in a good spot to pull over. Of course, like all bridges and tunnels in the area, there is a single company that is allowed to tow you off the bridge at $136. for the five minute tow to wait for the AAA tow to a mechanic.

[CarmelSkip]

If this is the part Im thinking of, like many of the easily broken "plastic" parts on these early cars there is a a bronze aftermarket replacement. I think that would be a permanent fix

[yale]

It is a metal part.

[nickb4]

AI was right at the top of Manhatten on the Henry Hudson Bridge, luckily in a good spot to pull over.

Well that's one way not to get pulled over by NY's finest, who are routinely stationed with radar guns on the HH pkwy betwen the HH bridge and GW bridge merge.

[yale]

Yeah well, I've been there too.

[edmayo]

As the clutch wears the effort to release it becomes greater. This over strains the entire system, the weak point on the 70/71 being the pivot ball. One test is if you still have an "over center" action, which is the diaphragm releasing all the way, then with further travel going "over center" Push the clutch pedal down by hand (more sensitive that way) As you push the pedal down it should get easier near the end of its travel, as it goes over center. If you don't feel that you're straining the linkage and you will keep breaking stuff. And NEVER replace clutch parts with aftermarket "heavy duty" . That 70/71 system won't tolerate it.

[CarmelSkip]

Guess I wasnt thinking of the correct part

[yale]

Well gentleman I so appreciate the comments. The new heavier piece was indeed used and ironically enough my search in the archives earlier today came up with the antithesis of today's advice. Of course I think the world of Ed Mayo but it is ironic that when searched on this topic this is the information from the mount:

"My 70 T got a new clutch after my clutch pivot bolt broke...117k and everything was orig!.....just wanted to pass on what a dealer mechanic that I recently have befriended told me.........use updated pivot bolt(many aftermarket stores carry it), and he also said after looking over my car that the non toothed fan belts tend to be more reliable(type dealer carry) and to update the rubber throttle thingy(sorry) w/ the updated metal caged one. This prevents sudden failure of gas pedal falling to floor upon rubber failure....seems as though the caged one enables you to get home in limp mode w/o catastrophic pedal failure........
-------
"If anything the steel one would concern me more because of the extra rotating mass. You won't notice any added pedal pressure with the alum 915 plate.

When Sachs discontinued the 2.2 plates about 10 years ago and we started using the 915 plates we had a few pivot ball failures. Ever since that time we automatically upgraded the ball on every clutch job. No problems since.

[edmayo]

The 'T' came with the steel pressure plates, the 'S' got the aluminum ones, I haven't checked what the current available pressure plate is, but the point is don't go for the 'gonzo' super strong ones. The 'over center' and therefore easier action is also in large part aided by the new, thicker clutch disc. When the disc gets thin the pressure plate diaphragm becomes more relaxed and has to be pulled further to disengage, hence the 'heavier' or lack of over center effect.

[yale]

I believe the pressure plate was the same 1 year old as the pivot. So I can't imagine it would have been that worn.