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Thread: Cleaning RSR Finish Fuchs

  1. #1
    Senior Member t6dpilot's Avatar
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    Cleaning RSR Finish Fuchs

    I have a method of cleaning RSR finish Fuchs that I would like to share with everyone. Sort of letting you in on a detailer's secret. I typically use the wash soap to clean wheels. Recently, I was cleaning these and the frosted finish just wouldn't clean up perfectly using a non-ammonia glass cleaner. So I pulled out some liquid Flitz metal and plastic polish to clean up the polished wheel lip and tried it on the frosted section. Works like a charm to get the petals looking like new again. Another substitute for the Flitz would be any paint polish - not wax, but a fine liquid polish that would take out scratches and swirls. I have used this to remove spots of yellowing brake residue on my DD wheels.

    Edit: Sorry for the sideways photo. The photo I loaded was right side up.
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    Scott H.
    1969 Coupe LtWt
    1973.5 911T

  2. #2
    While anodizing is pretty durable, the treated surface is typical only around 2.5 microns thick (0.000098425"). Thus, I would hesitate to apply any abrasive solutions on a long-term basis. Case in point; window and door trim was anodized black on some early and all later SC and Carreras.

    http://www.defelsko.com/applications.../Anodizing.htm

    Sherwood

  3. #3
    Senior Member t6dpilot's Avatar
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    Very true Sherwood. What I used and recommend is a gentle polish in liquid form. Any sort of compound that has a gritty feel should be avoided as it may ruin Harvey's beautiful workmanship.
    Scott H.
    1969 Coupe LtWt
    1973.5 911T

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by t6dpilot View Post
    Very true Sherwood. What I used and recommend is a gentle polish in liquid form. Any sort of compound that has a gritty feel should be avoided as it may ruin Harvey's beautiful workmanship.
    So a DA is out, then?
    -Marco
    SReg. #778 OGrp: #8 RGrp: #---
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    Searching for engine #907495 and gearbox 902/1 #229687

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by t6dpilot View Post
    Very true Sherwood. What I used and recommend is a gentle polish in liquid form. Any sort of compound that has a gritty feel should be avoided as it may ruin Harvey's beautiful workmanship.
    Not to beat a dead horse, but not all polishes are non-abrasive. It doesn't have to feel gritty for it to remove even a small amount of surface coating (e.g. toothpaste). Not telling you what to do, just advising others who may conclude that liquid polishes are just surface protectants. Some are.

    To test, apply the polish onto a random painted part that doesn't have a clear coat. Rub the polish into the surface with a clean cloth, then examine the cloth. If paint doesn't transfer to the cloth, no problem.

    For years, a thin coat of Vaseline has been suggested as a surface protectant. It's inert, provides a barrier to brake dust, oil/grease and dirt and washes off easily with soapy water.

    OK Marco, what's the high-tech acronym "DA"?

    S

  6. #6
    Regis turd ab user
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    I believe he is referring to dual action, as in polishers and sanders?

    Regarding a safe cleaning aid, I use Turtle Wax bug and tar remover when I need to dissolve some grime or funk. I've used it for autos as well as on guitars with nitro cellulous finish, nickel and chrome plating followed by a polish or wax, and it's cheap. I wonder how Soft Scrub would do for use with water?

    David

  7. #7
    Senior Member csbush's Avatar
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    soft scrub is pretty gritty- think it would scratch the finish--
    Chuck

    Early 911S registry #380
    '70S
    '75S
    '96 C4S
    '65 R69S

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