Hot BBQ of ignition switch

[draab29]

Started the day out trying to fix a few things. The turn signal stalk on my '69T was stuck, so my plan was to remove it and see if I could get it moving again. The knuckle head that I am, I did not disconnect the battery, so while removing the turn signal switch at the steering column I heard a pop and saw a puff of smoke. After loosening the stalk (which now moves perfectly) I re-installed it. Now I have no headlights, interior lights, clock, lighter, or ignition. When I turn the key the fuel pump does not start. The hazards, horn and windshield wipers work. Replaced all the fuses and horn/accessory light relay in the trunk with no improvement.

Did I short out the ignition switch? Any input greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Dave

[draab29]

Interim update. I cleaned the fuse boxes (after disconnecting the battery) and rechecked all fuses, replaced the relays under the dash and now have interior lights, clock, horn, hazards and wipers. Still no response from fuel pump and ignition when I turn the key, no turn signals, and no headlights. I removed the ignition switch from the dash and found the red wire with white stripes that travels from turn signal stalk to ignition switch was cooked. All other wires look OK. Wondering if I need a new ignition switch and headlight switch?

[ESully]

I am not sure of your wiring diagram, I am going by the SL33 on rennlist http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars/SL33-lft.pdf . There is a chance of some changes. If I can get a copy of the actual wiring I can be more specific. The power to the fuel pump, ignition switch, radio, and headlights are non-fused. You will have to check the harness wiring with a continuity tester if battery is disconnected, or voltmeter if connected, to see where the problem is. It is possible the insulation has melted on some of the wiring, so unwrapping the harness to check is highly recommended. Contacts in the ignition switch and light switch could be burned requiring replacement. Unplug and clean all electrical connectors to eliminate bad or burned pins from the problem.
If the harness is damaged Timmy2(Dennis)http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...ghlight=wiring can repair it.
Headlight switch is fed from non-fused side of fuse position 1. Power to the ignition switch terminal 30 comes from the unfused side of position 2 on the fuse panel and jumps to the signals from the ignition switch. Check on battery side of fuses 1 and 2 for battery voltage. If there is voltage here, then check terminal 30 on the headlight and ignition switch.
If you have power to position 30 on the ignition switch, the power then goes from the ignition switch in the run and start terminal 15 positon to the non-fused side of fuse 6, where power would be supplied to the fuel pump and CDI box. If there is power to pin 30, but no power to terminal 15 with the ignition switch in the run position, the switch is burned out.

[draab29]

Thanks E Sully. That information is a big help!! Going to take the ignition switch apart tonight

[draab29]

An update on progress or lack there of. I've been staring at the wiring diagram SL33 for about a week. I obtained a NOS ignition switch and headlight switch and replaced these with no improvement. All of the relays and fuses have been changed. The top 2 fuses in fuse box one have no power. Fuses 3,4, and 5 are hot all the time and getting power from the battery. The battery itself is in good condition and fully charged. Still no activity from the fuel pump or starter when i turn the ignition switch and no headlights, gauge lights or turn signals. The clock, interior lights, glove box light, wipers, wiper pump, hazards and horn continue to work.

[ESully]

One step at a time. What were the results when you tested the red wire from fuse 1 to pin 30 on the light switch, and the red wire from fuse 2 to pin 30 on the ignition switch?
You should read battery voltage at the headlight switch and the ignition switch if these wires are good.

[draab29]

Thanks E Sully. I will do that tonight. Does the ignition switch have to be in the "on" position and the headlight switch pulled on to test them?

[draab29]

As an aside, I did open a portion of the wiring bundle in the trunk to use a piercing probe. There was power to the wires from fuse 1 and 2 at that spot, but did not test at the switches.

[Mr9146]

Oh man, Doc.

Why didn't you just WD40 the switch with it installed?

If you need help just call...

[MikeM]

That's what you get for working on your car while I was out of town...I could have at least helped fry the entire system which would have made the diagnostics much easier
Hopefully this will be sorted soon by your Italian friend "Tony" before this weekend ....as you know we all need to get focused on the Pasta King's latest to help direct him in the right direction as he sorts....hopefully we will avoid the "frying" stage and move directly into interior and exterior tweaks for Luke
If not sorted by Saturday maybe we put "08" on alert this weekend in case we need to call a life line.....