I know this has been asked before but I've not found a real solution. I can pull 1 to 1 1/2" on the release, hear the latch move but it won't move at all. There's got to be a way short of trying to break the wire. Help?
I know this has been asked before but I've not found a real solution. I can pull 1 to 1 1/2" on the release, hear the latch move but it won't move at all. There's got to be a way short of trying to break the wire. Help?
Mike
Early 911S Registry #880
356 Registry #30248
1973 911S 2.7 RS spec
1973 911T
1964 356C twin plug
1969 Z28
The solution is simply use a small vise grip to hold the cable in the release position then push/pull/twist on the hood until you get the pin to pop past the receiver socket. Then adjust properly before closing again.
Early S Registry member #90
R Gruppe member #138
Fort Worth Tx.
I have the same problem and have tried the vise grip trick but so far the lid will not spring. I should probably try harder again. Some guys on the Pelican site recommended dropping the muffler and getting at the latch from below. I have not done that yet but I need to paint my muffler anyway so I might as well try that.
I tried several times today and it won't budge. I'll try dropping the muffler tonight.
Mike
Early 911S Registry #880
356 Registry #30248
1973 911S 2.7 RS spec
1973 911T
1964 356C twin plug
1969 Z28
Still stuck. Any other suggestions ?.
Mike
Early 911S Registry #880
356 Registry #30248
1973 911S 2.7 RS spec
1973 911T
1964 356C twin plug
1969 Z28
Did you remove the muffler? I don't think you're applying enough twisting force. By the way, how did it get stuck? were you experimenting with adjustments?
Early S Registry member #90
R Gruppe member #138
Fort Worth Tx.
Ed, my engine lid plunger is not aligning properly with the receiver mechanism (even after trying to adjust both to better line up) and the engine lid keeps popping open while underway. The engine lid is some mm to the left of center. My plan was to loosen the nuts on the engine lid and get it centered properly and then readjust the plunger and receiver assemblies to have them line up properly. Are there any pitfalls to this process of "adjustment" that I should be aware of before I "experiment"? TIA.
Harry
Early 911s Registry Member # 3046
1970 911T w/3.2L
R Gruppe # 780
2003 Boxster S
2007 997.1 GT3
2018 Macan S
Before you attempt any adjustments to engine lid fit remove the plunger from the upper latch, this way the lid can't latch and get stuck as you move the lid around. When you have the lid where you want it, and the rubber bumpers set, then reinstall the plunger and adjust the latch per the factory instructions.
Early S Registry member #90
R Gruppe member #138
Fort Worth Tx.
+ 1 on what Ed said, obviously......
When setting the plunger I like to place a bit of masking tape across the base, and mark the plunger with a dab of paint, to ensure its in the centre.
Tony
I'm no expert, but this is the way I adjust both the hood and the trunk lids: first I clean any grease or dirt off both the bullet nose plunger as well as the receiver; then, when my wife's out of the house, I sneak into her makeup drawer and "borrow" a stick of bright red lipstick; then I smear the bullet head with the lipstick; next, I carefully lower the hood or trunk down so that the bullet head rests on, but does not penetrate the receiver; then I lift the hood and see where the lipstick is on the receiver. If the lipstick is not in the exact center of the receiver, I clean off the receiver and add more lipstick to the bullet head and repeat the above steps, after adjusting the location of the plunger to where I feel it should be. Once the lipstick is in the exact center, I know that at least I'm in the right spot. Then, then all you need do is to adjust the depth of the plunger. Finally, and this is the most important step of all, I heat a butter knife, and attempt to recreate the exact angle on my wife's lipstick, before sneaking it back into the house. I've done this task many times and she's not caught me yet.
Steve Meltsner