Early 911 Window Cranks: Group Discussion

[mshaver51]

Recently, a member posted a FS ad selling window cranks, and as sometimes happens, his sale became burdened with questions about provenance. I offered to open a group discussion in the "Tech" forum to contain the window crank discussion, and let the member's FS ad focus on the business of selling his parts. (Please understand that I don't offer myself as a scholar in this discussion. I'm simply sharing what I've been told, and what I have read, and we are soliciting the input of the other members to determine whether a consensus can be developed.)

According to my research, there are two types of window crank frames, as well as 2 to 3 types of knobs. The earliest window crank frames were open in the center, leaving two outer 'rails' that connect the knob to the winding mechanism. As far as I have been able to tell, the earliest 'open' window cranks only had one configuration -- frame open in the center with a hard plastic knob. (I will try to add a photo of the 'open' configuration, as soon as I can find that box in my storage.)

WINDOW CRANK FRAMES
For '65-'67, the 'open window crank frames were used. Beginning in MY'68 (and maybe earlier), window crank frames were converted to a 'solid' configuration, which allowed for various plastic covers to clip onto the frame. The photos below show the solid crank frames with (and without) the trapezoidal-shaped inserts.

PLASTIC INSERTS & COVERS
According to my understanding, the solid crank frames had a hard, smooth, trapezoidal-shaped inserts were used in MY'67 for the "S" trim, and MY'68. After MY'68, it is my understanding that the inserts were replaced with a textured plastic, dome-shaped cover on the frames. (These crank frame covers are currently available from multiple suppliers.)

KNOBS
In MY'68, US safety regulations required a change to soft knobs on the dash, as well as window cranks. The photos show the difference between the (most common) soft and hard plastic knobs. (According to the parts manual, my August-'67-build MY'68 appears to be the change point for converting from hard plastic to soft knobs.) However, there is also a 3rd type of 'soft' knob, that appears to have been used in between the hard and (common) soft plastic knobs. This 'soft' knob was hollow in the center and the plastic material was softer than the hard plastic, and not as soft as the later 'soft' knobs, as shown in the photo added, below.

TRANSITIONS
As is common with MY'68, it is not currently clear exactly when the changes from the 'open' to the solid frames; or the change from hard plastic insert to the full plastic covers, occurred. Based on the parts manual, it appears that the hard knobs were replaced by soft knobs in August, 1967, possibly with an 'interim' version of softer plastic.

INVITATION TO THE DISCUSSION
I'm hopeful that the group discussion can narrow the variables and provide some solid provenance information for the community. Of course, I expect other opinions to be offered, and I am not upset by disagreement, so please feel free to offer your intellectual capital.

[37yrold911]

can we discuss what we like? if so, I bought the early (bottom) type for the long thin chrome "rails" but don't like the long narrow knobs on them, so I'm still using the "correct" ones with the plastic covers

what I'd really like are the aftermarkety ones from Villem B. Haan that have the drilled holes in a solid Al handle

[Jrsully]

who makes the best (correct) repro handle for a 71 these days.? Good unpitted/beat up originals seem to be hard to find. Thx

[mshaver51]

I'm a SWB guy, so there are probably better references than me...

But according to the Brett Johnson book, the 71-73 window cranks were basically 3 pieces -- frame, knob and cover. (The SWB has frame, knob, plastic insert (maybe), and round cover over the winder wheel.) So, the question about the best repro would need to be clear as to which of the 3 parts you want to be perfect. The soft knob is a weak design, considering the stress and frequency that the part is used, so there is the aspect of strength that needs to be considered for the knob.

Pelican and Stoddard both sell knobs, covers and frames, but I've been told that they come from the same supplier. I'd love to hear more from those with LWB knowledge.