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Thread: engine grill work over - alu or alu chromed

  1. #1
    Senior Member haul's Avatar
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    engine grill work over - alu or alu chromed

    as i am just reworking an old 65 engine lid i do want to work on the old dents and remove them.
    from my old english motorbikes i know most parts are blank alu, i can work on with sandpaper and else materials to get it bright and shiny again.

    I do not know this for the engine lid alu strips
    are they just blank alu polished, or alu chromed?

    thanx for advice



    btw:where do i get the rivets for fixing the wire mesh?
    59 750 pre unit triton
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  2. #2
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    Haul -- from what I understand, the aluminum is anodized. I would not sand in them unless you plan on having them re-anodized. Also, each piece is numbered. I know with patience, the slats can be straightened back to factory specs.

  3. #3
    Senior Member haul's Avatar
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    dear beaker,

    omg anodized . . . i hate it . .so nothing i can do to remove the dents . .?
    59 750 pre unit triton
    63 650 gray silver bikinitub triumph thunderbird
    70 650 astralred silver triumph bonneville
    65 912 slate gray "erwin"
    73 914 ravennagreen "ferdl"
    erwin_loves_polo

  4. #4
    Senior Member StephenAcworth's Avatar
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    definitely anodized...
    1966 911 Coupe - Slate Grey - 304598 - still in restoration!

    Member #1616

  5. #5
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    Advertise here for the slats you need. I'll bet there are members of this forum that
    have pieces laying around…..

  6. #6
    Lighting Specialist jaudette3's Avatar
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    Were they anodized or bright dipped? If they were anodized can you achieve the same result with the bright dipping process?

    Thanks,
    John
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  7. #7
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    Oh it is anodized all right and very hard to restore. I'm doing mine (67) right now and have it in pieces all over a table. I am using a product made to clean glass stove tops which shines it up nice but there are still cloudy areas which I guess are oxidation. Can't seem to do anything with them. Also some rust staining which is proving tough but I think it is coming off. I did not have to take the rivets out, thank goodness. Would love to hear of a product that helps the oxidation.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Harvey Weidman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaudette3 View Post
    Were they anodized or bright dipped? If they were anodized can you achieve the same result with the bright dipping process?

    Thanks,
    John
    They were bright (dip) anodized....like the LWB door frames and the window trim.
    Not anodized like the wheels....
    H

  9. #9
    "Bright Dip is a chemical polishing process that brightens and enables bold coloring of aluminum primarily for cosmetic applications. Bright Dip leaves no deposit on the surface of the part. In addition, anodizing the product after bright dipping will protect the metal against corrosion, fading and scratching. Bright Dip anodized products can be clear or dyed in a wide variety of colors. Providing a micro-polished finish, Bright Dip is an excellent process for enhancing the glossy appearance of aluminum."
    Last edited by CarmelSkip; 03-11-2015 at 12:20 PM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Harvey Weidman's Avatar
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    That is the reason I put dip in quotes to keep from confusing it with chemical polishing. We usually refer to it as bright anodize. It is not the same as chemical polishing.
    Parts are polished first then anodized with this special type of anodize that stays clear not milky like the "normal" anodize used on wheels...
    H

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