Restoration project, single stage or ...?

[LV911]

We are getting to the paint part on our 73.5 resto project. We are turning the car back to original, everything down to the last bolt will be replaced. We are having a debate if we should go single stage like the factory or go with the newer technology and do the paint and the clear coat ! This project is a large learning process for us and most likely we will offer the car for sale after completion so we can get on some other projects we already have in storage. Please give us some input on this situation. Thanks guys

[Fishcop]

You can use a modern two-part (paint and hardener) polyurethane single stage product. You really only need to consider clear-over-base if you're using a metallic colour.

[Gearby]

The factory only used single stage on solid colors in '73. They used a base coat/clear coat on metallics. Original paint would have been acrylic enamel, but acrylic urethane is the most common choice for today's cars. IMHO, acrlyic urethane is superior to acrylic enamel.

[91133]

+1 to all the above but I would add that with the early non-metallic colours your paint mixer will also have to factor in the opacity of the original paint as well as the tone of the undercoat. This will affect how the finished job looks in different lights and you will - for the sort of restoration you are talking about - want to ensure the 'look' and 'depth' of the paint match the original under all conditions not just on an overcast day.

Good luck with the project.

Mark

[curtisaa]

We are getting to the paint part on our 73.5 resto project. We are turning the car back to original, everything down to the last bolt will be replaced. We are having a debate if we should go single stage like the factory or go with the newer technology and do the paint and the clear coat ! This project is a large learning process for us and most likely we will offer the car for sale after completion so we can get on some other projects we already have in storage. Please give us some input on this situation. Thanks guys

Glasurit paint is expensive. If you re doing a spec car and want max return use enamel. Here in SoCal there are only a few areas to buy this product becuz of the AQMD. Here, most paint is water base. Seriously 95% cannot tell
the diff. unless your name ends with Espisito....

[TheBen]

And that's why my car is at Esposito's shop!

[LV911]

Thank you for all the replies guys.

[BrentF]

Which raises another question: What differences do the 5% detect between singles stage paint and base coat/clear coat? I've often wondered about this, being a member of the unwashed 95%.

[Gearby]

Basecoat/ clear coat is supposed to give a slightly glossier and deeper appearance. Although most can't tell the difference. For solids I prefer single stage since I can cut and buff all I want. All I have to worry about is wearing the paint too thin instead of worrying about wearing through the clear and exposing the base. obviously with metallics you can't cut the base coat, so any debris that gets in the base coat is there for good. I Also only have to buy one paint instead of base and clear and the spraying is shorter and easier. others may feel differently but that has been my experience.

[Harvey Weidman]

Which raises another question: What differences do the 5% detect between singles stage paint and base coat/clear coat? I've often wondered about this, being a member of the unwashed 95%.

Side by side the difference is apparent.
You can see the "shadow" of the clear on the angles. The clear coated straight color had depth but looses some "bounce".
And single stage doesn't have that "dime store shine" that clear coat does...as my old painter friend referred to it.
H