Been thinking about trying one of the manual changers, and soliciting any feedback on them.
They represent a challenge yet fall at a fraction of bigger hydraulic units of 800 lb.
Widespread use years back. Mainly, for passenger tires.
Been thinking about trying one of the manual changers, and soliciting any feedback on them.
They represent a challenge yet fall at a fraction of bigger hydraulic units of 800 lb.
Widespread use years back. Mainly, for passenger tires.
That changer isn't like the old manual changers. I have tried to us a friends and wasn't very successful.
We have used the Roger Kraus manual changer exclusively for 20+ years.
Not cheap but you can change tires without damaging wheels and that should be the most important.
I don't use his balancer but I heard it works well also.
H
I don't see that changer offered anywhere, and glad to know about it..Originally Posted by Harvey Weidman
As far as damage, on 'dismount' step - with no changer at all and simply cutting the cords with a 9" bolt cutter...the tire flops right off. 10 -12 strands per side.
Forearms feel'in it..
As far as I know it is only available at Roger Kraus Racing.
Before that or in an emergency I have used hand tools.
Cutting cords is a lot of extra work.
(I had a customer once that thought he could save money by cutting the cords with a Oxy/acetylene torch....)
H
Having done 8 wheels of [NON FUCHS] design, these changers succeed, but not without roughly 20 prepared steps. About 3 pages of handwritten notes will steady you, since very little is provided from the Far East. It weighs about 25 lbs altogether. Time is consumed greatly at first..
Dismounting old tire - after bead breaking, is straightforward. No sweat. ( Rt side of rod ) Wd 40.
Mounting - easily the hardest step : the pole has 'C' shape at the left, which assists. The first half of tire slips on by hand, w out much effort. The rod comes into play for the final bead. The 'C' shape at the left end...is not cast perfect, so filing, sanded, polished..greased, helps in keeping the rim free of nicks.
Obstacle : Final bead is a M A J O R hassle if tire is too parallel or horizontal. For ex, at your waist, tire should angle down about 3/4" using wood between rim and rubber. I was amazed with a small offset - the last 20 % slipped over the rim edge without any binding. Horizontal, the tire snags up too easily. Wd 40 helps... Wipe clean before inflating.
The Base - normally screw into concrete. But (2) pc's of pallet wood 4 ft length, notched at center to make a cross shape, also works. Simply screw into the wood, as a large platform, and pretty solid.
If you picked up a Mig and learned, practice would be needed. Welders have nice booklets of how to's.. This does not. Celebration in my case was getting 225 60 15 rubber on porsche dial rims, with clean result..
Cost of tool $34.95
Last edited by 62S-R-S; 04-03-2015 at 04:13 PM.
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