rear suspension / rear wheel bearings help needed!

[rick b]

Hi, still working on my 1970 911E.

So I took a break on welding / rust repair, and decided to clean up the various suspension parts and get them ready for powder coating or painting. I had removed all the suspension parts about a year ago, so everything is on the bench. I was able to get all but one of the CV joint bolts out. The last one will get a little heat if it doesn't yield to the air gun. The half shaft came out of the wheel bearing without problems.

so, several questions for the experienced:

(1) I got the top end bushings out on the trailing arm, but there still remains a metal sleeve. I assume that it needs to be pressed out as well. Is there any magic to this? Just force and PB Blaster? It looks like the sleeve is in two pieces. The inner sleeve and the rubber bushing came out OK.

(2) The wheel bearing doesn't want to come out. Several of my repair manuals suggest that the bearing will be ruined during the removal. I can see that this will probably happen, but the bearing hasn't been out or greased since it was installed in the factory, so do I just continue to work to press / pound it out? I hope that new wheel bearings are available!!

(3) I am planning on just cleaning and greasing the CV joints, but I could not find a guide on how to do this other than remove the ring clip and grease. I am sure that there is a process, but my books do not have a better description and I could not find a guide on this site using search. Does the hard rubber part come loose? Do the ball bearings come out? Both ends of both shafts are stiff, but I am sure that cleaning and greasing will solve this. Just need some guidance on how to take apart so that I don't ruin them.

Thanks in advance. Will post pictures if needed.

Rick

[smedley]

Ed Mayo needs to chime in here....he's done hundreds. I've done several...enough to invest in the SIR Tool rear bearing tool set...Samstag sells it.

"top end bushings"??? I'm guessing you are referring to the flanblock rubber bushings at the front of the trailing are as it inserts in the brackets on the torsion tube??

Each trailing are will have two, inner and outer, they are sacrificial, ie destroyed with removal....usually they come apart in the press and the outer sleeves can be pry'd out with a big screw driver.

The large rear hub bearing is also sacrificial. At least I would never trust one after the forces used to removed the inner and outer hubs are applied. Readily available, but not cheap, but not worth trying to save!

That bearing is either pulled or pressed in and out with the appropriate arbor on the outer race.....the outer hub will generally just slide into the bearing and the inner splined hub will start and then snug up when the castellation nut is tightened.

"appropriate arbor" is key here and where having a machinist who can make the size to fit...or just buying/borrowing the SIR kit will save headaches.

Note: the factory sells two size rear hub bearings for the '69-on cars....one is slightly oversized for worn housings, the other standard. Check part #s and don't try to press in the oversize bearing unless your old bearing fell out. Then go with the oversized. If it was a "pull job" to get the old bearing out go with the stock size. The parts houses will only have the standard size...dealers can get the oversized bearing.

[37yrold911]

3 - CVs - disassemble and put the balls in marked egg cartons 'cups' so you can put them back where they were

do NOT spin the thing with an air hose

remove all grease with a rag or start with paper towels, then a rag

inspect and post good close up pics of anything that looks pitted or off-color if you are unsure

use a good EP grease - Swepco rules, but a good synthetic is fine

used Scnorr washers go in the metals recycling bin; the cap screws can be reused if both the wrenching fixture and all threads pass inspection - use a loupe if your eyes are old

inspect moon plates for marring, grab marks etc.

allow NO grease on any threads including the female threads - use many Q-tips and brake cleaner to clean them

use a properly calibrated torque wrench - if not sure get it checked

----

Lisle makes a nice plastic wheel bearing greaser

[rick b]

Thanks to both!!

I will be working on this over the weekend, and will post pics when successful.

Rick

[edmayo]

Mark is spot on correct, the hub bearing in the arm is assumed to be destroyed by removal. You either need to buy the tooling for this job or pay someone to do it that has the tool. There have been threads where people have made removal tools from relatively simple hardware store parts, I don't remember exactly where I saw this, perhaps here, or maybe pelican. Be sure to get a name brand bearing such as 'FAG' and even those aren't German made anymore, we've encountered some from middle east countries that had some play even brand new !

[hoffman912]

i used sir tools to get my rear wheel bearings as well as the rear trailing arm bushing. harbor freight has their version of the sir tools for a fraction of the cost - you can try that but cant guarantee it will fit. http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-fro...ers-66829.html

[Hesselr]

Mark is spot on correct, the hub bearing in the arm is assumed to be destroyed by removal. You either need to buy the tooling for this job or pay someone to do it that has the tool. There have been threads where people have made removal tools from relatively simple hardware store parts, I don't remember exactly where I saw this, perhaps here, or maybe pelican. Be sure to get a name brand bearing such as 'FAG' and even those aren't German made anymore, we've encountered some from middle east countries that had some play even brand new !

I would definately try to get a FAG rear wheel bearing. I had to replace 2 SKF bearings after 6 months as they already had too much play. No issues with the FAG ones. Partnumber for standard size is 713 6122 40.