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Thread: testing the cold start solenoid circuit.

  1. #1

    testing the cold start solenoid circuit.

    my car has some difficulty with cold starts.
    warm starts are fine
    have to crank several times before it starts.
    I know the solenoid is grounded because i can get it to squirt fuel with a jump from the engine fuse block.
    the PO had a manual switch on the dash.
    I removed it before i realized what it was for originality sake.
    is there a testing protocol to trouble shoot.
    thanks
    bob moglia
    '72 E sunroof coupe

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Southern Ca.
    Posts
    1,179
    Solenoid is activated by the relay on the eng. comp. relay board . Thermo time switch provides ground continuity to switch on the relay .

  3. #3
    Describe your cold start procedure in detail.
    1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen

  4. #4
    Simple fix is put the switch back on. Helps for hot starts (I had one added).
    1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened
    Early 911S Registry Member #425

  5. #5
    My cold start procedure:
    Get in car pull up throttle lever turn key.
    Repeat.
    Not trying to be a wiseass.
    What should I be doing differently?
    BTW, just got my car back from Tom Florio, who set ride height and corner balance.
    Did a GREAT job. Thanks for the recommendation.
    bob moglia
    '72 E sunroof coupe

  6. #6
    Bob, the reason I ask is that a modified cold-start procedure worked well for my '71E, on which I disabled the cold-start circuit entirely.

    You want to put a bunch of fuel into the cylinders then richen them up. So I used to:

    1) Wide-open throttle, crank for 3 seconds;
    2) Close throttle, wait 2 seconds for mixture to percolate down;
    3) Crank with throttle closed for 3 seconds, engine should fire.

    I was with Tommy last week for an inspection, I told him "You are the only person in the Hudson Valley that I would let touch my car!"
    1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen

  7. #7
    Am I correct in saying that the only time the solenoid should power up is when cold and cranking and the advantage to a switch is you can squirt fuel into the throttle bodies therefore decreasing crank time.

    You probably saw my car: olive green.
    bob moglia
    '72 E sunroof coupe

  8. #8
    Take the grey wire off the solenoid, attach a couple jumper leads to it that will reach to the driver's door. Ground that jumper lead through a test light, crank engine while watching test light, it should light up for 'several ' seconds. If it doesn't for simplicity's sake try a different cold start relay (round black one on relay board) If relay is good use ohm meter to insure that thermal switch is grounded by putting one lead on the body of the thermal switch and one to the engine case. If that is good remove yellow wire from thermal switch , hook to test light or volt meter and ensure that you getting 12v. there when starter is engaged. By the way, how long does it crank before starting,,,and how long does it sit between starts?
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

  9. #9
    Usually crank in 3-4 second bursts.
    Usually starts on 2nd of third attempt
    I know that's not bad but I have no prior experience as a reference.
    Re sit time: a day or a week it's the same process.
    bob moglia
    '72 E sunroof coupe

  10. #10
    My procedure, with a working cold start, is to turn on ignition and let pump run for 15 seconds or so. I apply a small bit of throttle pedal pressure, crank engine and it usually starts after a few seconds,,,,,if it doesn't then I turn key off for a few seconds which lets the thermoswitch cool and reset, then repeat process. If not the first, then usually the second try starts up.
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

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