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Thread: Car Lifts (for personal garage use)... Thoughts needed

  1. #11
    I've been very happy with my 4-post Bendpak lift. Also got two hydraulic jacks that fit in between the runways to lift the car off its wheels/tires. If your location is prone to earthquakes, the 4-post could be a bit safer. That played a part in my decision.
    Bill Morris

  2. #12
    As the merits of both types have already been discussed, let me just add that most 4 post lifts can easily be rolled out of your garage, enabling you to take advantage of It's full height. Be sure to check measurments first.

  3. #13
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    I will be looking at a 4 post in the next year. I don't like the thought of storing my targa on a 2 post. One thing to note is the distance between the ramps so you can drop the engine between them.
    Neil
    '73 911S targa

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfitton View Post
    Manufacturer and cost please.
    +1 please

  5. #15
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    I agree. Given the 911 weight balance front to rear I always over engineer and just feel better with a four post. If you have enough room I would go that route. Of course a quick jack lift like the one at RRV would be super for smaller spaces.The one brand I would stay away from ( even though I have three) is "SuperLifts". There are plenty of other great brands.
    Good Luck

  6. #16
    Bought this lift about 9 years ago. Because we live in the Bay Area and are prone to earth quakes, I had an engineer friend of mine check out the specs on the lift. I too was leary of the car just hanging out only suspended on one side.
    This lift works in the same principal as a fork lift. Heavy balast and secure fasteners epoxied into a 5" thick slab stablize the lift. Also, a heavy steel piece that goes under the car. Basically a huge 'L' with two ramps lift the car.
    Still I was a skeptic, loaded the lift with several pallets of tile and misc. heavy stuff and shook it as if there was a car on top. Did it move? Yep, but only a slight amount. Ok, shake it harder. Did it move? Not more than the first time. Looks good to go. By the way, my engineer friend has one too, now he's seen mine. Has a fat fender hot rod above his wife's Mercedes.

    The lift is from a small company out of Texas, Gemini Lift. www.geminilift.com

    I had it modified to fit the size of the cars. Basically, cut 4" out of the width and 12" off the length of the ramps. I had it painted machinery gray which is a nice contrast to the Griot's Garage epoxy floor paint.

    Cost in 2006? About $4,500 installed.

    Rich

  7. #17
    Does anyone have issues with a scissors lift with regard to its height when down? Is there clearance to drive a typical Porsche onto it? Is the clearance small enough that the geometry makes the initial few inches of lift difficult?

  8. #18
    Had all types at one point or another... (well not the 1 post apparently, that would freak me out a little, but same +/- as a 2 post with one less post I guess)
    Quick summary:

    - 4 post : great for stacking and quick oil changes. $$ for other work as you need to add sliding jacks if you want the wheels off. Takes a lot of vertical space and "kills" a room that previously seemed big. Requires about 10ft with normal to low 911s on it and under it for stacking. Generally movable, which is nice because I promise you *will* move it 4x before you get it perfect for you... Minus: Sooner or later you will bang your head on the lift pad real good, it kills the light spread in a garage (req more lightning elsewhere), freaks out neighbors, often requires higher ceiling and high lift garage door kit. Mine came in at $3000 with delivery and assembly.

    - 2 posts: Easy for ALL work, the choice of mechanics, but not so great for stacking long term (drooping suspension). You have to position the pads under the car every time which is annoying (vs a stacker where you cannot go wrong, assuming a wheels-on job). Minus: Not movable, requires bolting down which gives you exactly one shot at the perfect location... Also, sooner or later, you will either ding your door on the post or trip on the arms, I promise you ;-) Also just from simple physics a 4 post or scissor looks more stable in case of a quake or accident... Totally useless to stack but better for mechanical work overall. (same with 1 post but even weirder looking). I forgot what I paid for that one... Long ago..

    - Scissor: Seemingly the least intrusive, cheapest and therefore most practical...but not really... Much better than nothing, not as good as the 2 above. It is very moveable, and you could take it with you when you move without incurring a headache. Minus: You either need to build ramps unless your car is a 959 at Dakar ride height (5" generally + some to reach for the arms and position them, so do the math). Or recess the lift in your floor in a pit that is cut to size and reconcreted..$. Need to position the pads each time, which can be a PITA with ramps limiting access (worse than the 2 post).. You may have to park forwards or backwards (on ramps, good luck) depending on what you and working on, so that the pistons and the cross member are not in the way. The thing + the inevitably ugly ramps are always there and you need to park over it. Definitely useless for stacking (you could with a 2 post, not that I would, but you could "temporarily" - not here)

    Honestly, given my experience with all 3 - no dog in that fight - if I had the space I'd get a "loaded" 4-post (with the added sliding jacks)... Moveable, good for work + stacking so it's like 2 toys in one, looks cool to have the cars stacked (way cheaper than extending your garage), super easy to drive on and work within seconds for most jobs that are not engine drops. Can be converted to a paint booth in a pinch with plastic sheets ;-) But it takes 10ft - 3meters vertically, give or take, even with low cars... I got a scissor now because of my new smaller garage, it's "useful" but kinda annoying, so I end up using it less, and my ramps are fugly ;-)
    Last edited by Greg D.; 10-02-2015 at 12:31 PM.
    Greg.
    ----------
    72 911T - 73 2002
    #1461

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by rattlecan View Post
    Bought this lift about 9 years ago. Because we live in the Bay Area and are prone to earth quakes, I had an engineer friend of mine check out the specs on the lift. I too was leary of the car just hanging out only suspended on one side.
    This lift works in the same principal as a fork lift. Heavy balast and secure fasteners epoxied into a 5" thick slab stablize the lift. Also, a heavy steel piece that goes under the car. Basically a huge 'L' with two ramps lift the car.
    Still I was a skeptic, loaded the lift with several pallets of tile and misc. heavy stuff and shook it as if there was a car on top. Did it move? Yep, but only a slight amount. Ok, shake it harder. Did it move? Not more than the first time. Looks good to go. By the way, my engineer friend has one too, now he's seen mine. Has a fat fender hot rod above his wife's Mercedes.

    The lift is from a small company out of Texas, Gemini Lift. www.geminilift.com

    I had it modified to fit the size of the cars. Basically, cut 4" out of the width and 12" off the length of the ramps. I had it painted machinery gray which is a nice contrast to the Griot's Garage epoxy floor paint.

    Cost in 2006? About $4,500 installed.

    Rich
    Thanks Rich!
    Going to look into one.

  10. #20
    Senior Member Haasman's Avatar
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    Following this thread with great interest. I am building a garage anticipating installing a Bendpak double post with the asymmetrical arms to avoid the door contact. The concrete floor, BTW is 6" thick, 6 bag pour, 4,000 PSI strength rating.

    I did a lot of research/searching. This is what convinced me to go with and pay a bit more for a Bendpak lift. http://www.bendpak.com/a-study-in-lift-design/
    Haasman

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