Anyone have experience with MEYLE rear wheel bearing?

[G69]

I picked up a MEYLE bearing locally (NJ) because I want to tackle replacing one this Thanksgiving break.

I paid $88 at NAPA and this bearing is from NAPAs "premium" line.

I could've bought a Chinese bearing for around $25 but it is "character building" replacing bearings in my '69 steel trailing arms so I want a bearing that will last.

The box says "passed quality control Germany" and Original-MEYLE-Teile and the bearing itself says MEYLE GERMANY on the inner race...

A sticker on the box says Wheel Bearing, rr MADE IN CHINA!

I called MEYLE and the tech rep told me "Likely the bearing IS CHINESE"!

Does anyone here have experience with these bearings marked GERMANY but "likely made in CHINA"???

I'm set with good weather and time to tackle this Hellish job.

Am I painting myself into a corner with this part? I have no other LOCAL means of getting a German Bearing until it becomes FRIGID here in NJ...

[37yrold911]

from what I hear recently, you never buy anything stamped meyle

[NTW]

I haven't used their bearings but earlier this year I installed a set of Meyle ball joints on a VW and the boot split on one as soon as the car was lowered on the lift. Zero miles!

[edmayo]

I don't think you can find a German made bearing any more. We've seen FAG and SKF made in a variety of countries, none that were German speaking. And on at least one occasion even the new one had some minor play, as compared to the 100,000 mile O.E. German one on the other side with no play. Welcome to the age of lowest bidder.

[chris_seven]

What year is the car?

For SWB cars we use FAG Outer and INA inner bearings. We buy a standard Inner track which is $10 and cylindrically grind the ID from 35 to 37mm.

If it is a 1969 bearing then in the UK we can still find SKF, FAG or Timken which seem OK.

We always order a BMW M42 bearing (2000MY 3 Series) from out local parts supplier.

He lists 1969 Porsche 911 at a Trade Price of $100 each and the BMW Bearing at $45.

We have done this for the last 5 years without problems.

[Richy]

I had the same experience as NTW with a Meyle BMW control arm . Follow Chris' advice or buy an SKF bearing form Pelican Parts . I vote no on the Meyle .

[G69]

Thank you gentlemen!

I guess I'll get a SKF bearing. I was hoping I had a NOS German bearing because the bearing is stamped MEYLE GERMANY. It is our new world indeed that an item can be stamped GERMANY and not be marked- MADE IN CHINA!

There is no rush now... I have not been able to extricate the hub from the trailing arm. I had success years ago with the starboard side but this left side is not moving.


I removed the shock and brake parts and after two men with crow-bars, a slide hammer, 2 day soaking with Kroll, a big ball pean hammer against a SNAP-ON deep socket that fits the hub circumference, and a big smack with an old anvil (yep, and no beer) on the socket- I am dead in the water.

I'll try some heat today from lamps and heat gun.

I've read many of the posts about this project now and years back.
I've read about lots of blood and hair on the shop floor with folks struggling with aluminum trailing arms- These steel ones are even more brutal.

Hell- if these cars weren't worth a waterfront home now I'd put AL training arms in and be done with this!

Thanks again Fellas!

Gene

[Paragon]

I'd stick with FAG or SKF. The FAG bearing is less $ than the Napa Meyle unit.

[37yrold911]

put AL training arms in and save the old ones in a box for someone concerned about correctness and not about driving or performance

[G69]

I'm going to get the FAG. I finally separated the hub from the arm. What is the difference in weight for the AL arm? I already have several boxes of "original parts"... I guess I could stash these arms in the attic... Is there a discernible difference in performance? Do the AL arms bolt in without moving brake lines or anything else?