Paint

[Kitson88]

I'm getting ready to paint my 1968 SWT, original paint, Polo Red, what do I use and where do I get it, I live in Los Angeles so there are VOC restrictions

[pss]

I specifically looked for a place that can paint in original Glasurit solvents based paint. I found one with an exemption to the Dutch VOC rules as he only does 3-4 cars a year under strict monitoring. If there is such thing in CA or neighboring states, I'd go through the trouble of travel to get it right.

[Kitson88]

For clarification, I have an experienced Pinter who wants to use Glasurit solvent based material, he requires me to source the paint, the supplier who he has recommended is having great difficulty getting me the necessary paint. I need 2 gallons of Polo Rd for my 68 SWT.

[Jim Morris]

I just painted my 67S SWT with Glasurit Polo Red. Find a county in California that still allows Glasurit solvent based to be sold. One such county is Monterey which I where I live and buy my paint. Are you going to use single stage urethane (Glasurit 22-line)? Or two stage (base coat/clear coat) Glasurit 55-line? I highly recommend you also use Glasurit epoxy primer filler (801-72) for your substructure. It has the wonderful properties of an epoxy but it is also sandable -- expensive but worth it, and you save the trouble of using separate epoxy on the bare metal then primer/filler over the epoxy. Of course, discuss this with your painter. Glasurit wants big heat in the booth as soon as the last coat is applied. I don't recommend you paint in the winter without a heated booth.

[curtisaa]

For clarification, I have an experienced Pinter who wants to use Glasurit solvent based material, he requires me to source the paint, the supplier who he has recommended is having great difficulty getting me the necessary paint. I need 2 gallons of Polo Rd for my 68 SWT.

I've done several SWB , swt's and one gallon is plenty. Expect to pay north of $1,000 for all components to complete this paint process. If you're going the factory route, you will need single stage urethane. This Polo Red is tricky. You need to find someone with an original paint job to get it close. Best if you can borrow a gas lid , and take it to your supplier and have him try to match this color as best as possible. The formula will NOT come out correctly is you just
go with what they give you. I've been through this process before. Good luck. I'm just putting the finishing touches on a 1968 tangerine SWT currently.

[pss]

rather than depending on the weather, I'd recommend 2 weeks in 60C, 150F

I just painted my 67S SWT with Glasurit Polo Red. Find a county in California that still allows Glasurit solvent based to be sold. One such county is Monterey which I where I live and buy my paint. Are you going to use single stage urethane (Glasurit 22-line)? Or two stage (base coat/clear coat) Glasurit 55-line? I highly recommend you also use Glasurit epoxy primer filler (801-72) for your substructure. It has the wonderful properties of an epoxy but it is also sandable -- expensive but worth it, and you save the trouble of using separate epoxy on the bare metal then primer/filler over the epoxy. Of course, discuss this with your painter. Glasurit wants big heat in the booth as soon as the last coat is applied. I don't recommend you paint in the winter without a heated booth.

[curtisaa]

rather than depending on the weather, I'd recommend 2 weeks in 60C, 150F

After painting, since you live in Los Angeles , just leave outside in sun. The sun will let paint cure and dry perfectly

[pss]

yeah, just rub it in. here is just over 35F and pretty wet.....

[Jim Morris]

In my post above, the purpose of the high final booth temperature is not drying and curing, it is flow. Sun, later on, will induce cure, but not flow. As for one gallon only, if you are going to paint all surfaces (e.g., inside lids) and given it is a Targa, that is probably enough -- but it could be heart pounding close. Remember, though, if you go with single stage and have an extraordinary painter you still will want at least 3 coats (one will come off color sanding and that is why I always apply 4 coats for single stage, just like I apply 4 coats of clear for 2 stage). If something goes wrong and you run out of paint, however, you will have a real problem, because if you have one more quart mixed it will not be exactly the same "color" as the gallon. On the other hand for a margin of safety, your could get a gallon and a quart at the start. Then have the paint supplier "box" them. This means they will be poured back and forth many times into different containers, so you end up with one gallon and one quart that are exactly the same. Consider also that if you need to fix damage later on, you will have left over material that matches.

[Fixer]

I'm getting ready to paint my 1968 SWT, original paint, Polo Red, what do I use and where do I get it, I live in Los Angeles so there are VOC restrictions

I don't think you'll have trouble getting the color mixed right if you go to someone whose got a reputation for being good. You also check prior to spraying the car and if you feel it's wrong have them make it right. The problem i see with using an original part for the mixer to scope, is that with reds like Polo they tend to darken after 50 years of sun.
The part's paint could also be rubbed very thin from being waxed over the years and be lighter than it should be as the primer is very close. I've seen this with an original signal orange car.. The inside of the lid [polished] would be better if you were lucky enough to find one. So let's say you find one and start dark w the mix, as the paint cures and darkens over 6 months it will end up even darker and wrong or if light be wrong too. I repainted this color in the 90s when i worked for Bimmerwerks in De. It was a Ca car with it's original but crazing paint. It was very dark but was much prettier and vibrant after i repainted it. It took several months for it to look just right.