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Thread: 911S Resurrection Not Restoration

  1. #451
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    *the supports of the fenders have been restored, one of them needs to be finished since it was not given a primer coat but I do not think it takes much work

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    *One of the flares was brought to the metal and given primer and primer, the other was sanitized and primer was applied respecting the layers of yellow and primer.

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    *the corners of the front glass have been cleaned up. Maybe a little confusion here! That corner where I made a small lead tin solder had received the primer, it was removed a month ago since I liked the idea of ​​stripping all that front part and not putting putties. This is the last work done on the car! The photos shown yesterday.


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    *the rear glass frames have been worked except for the top that I need to strip, I do not expect to find rust in that area.

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    *The engine went down and the transmission too. A great step for a person as small as me ...

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    *some things were painted although surely these will be done again.

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    *levers have been restored

  2. #452
    Much clearer.
    Not to boss you around, but get the shell fully stripped and show it to a pro. There will be some parts tat are above your knowledge.
    The left front suspension pickup point looks bent. If the shell is not straight, the car will never be a correct restoration. Show it to a pro.

  3. #453
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    *the back door has not been touched much but it did clean up the rust that I saw

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    *Here the door frame was worked and given a layer. On this side the painting has not been lifted. Only in places where there was rust

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    *The radio, of little importance .... It was revised!

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    *the floors are laid, in the absence of phosphatized and the transparent epoxy that I gave in a part of the passenger floor and also in the transmission tunnel

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    *The entire roof received the same coat of paint. I found a rust bubble.

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    *general photo

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    *the piece also later received the gray coat



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    --I also add this image that has nothing to do with our car but I would like to leave it here since it is the first time that I see a photo of a crashed Tenerife porsche.

  4. #454
    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgeK View Post
    Much clearer.
    Not to boss you around, but get the shell fully stripped and show it to a pro. There will be some parts tat are above your knowledge.
    The left front suspension pickup point looks bent. If the shell is not straight, the car will never be a correct restoration. Show it to a pro.
    I know, the professionals who have come have looked at the tips. Those damages are damages of the year 74 and the car has been "all life that way" you can see in some images that the car like wheel inside the rubber. My father thought it was for alignment and it's something he told me that was one of the last things he was looking at in the car before breaking down! I continue with the main idea. If it works, stop it! The front and the battery box also have the blow, the ground also, but they do not bother me. If I really notice it when I drive the car I think it will go through a cellette, meanwhile and with the opinion "of the professionals here" it is not so necessary at this point if it is known that the car was "good" before! When I can George I try to take pictures with good lighting!

  5. #455
    I would rephrase it this way: The car drives OK despite the front end damage. I know of several race cars that are used bent, even today. Does not make it right.
    You'll get critics. I would straighten it, considering the amount of work put in already.

  6. #456
    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgeK View Post
    I would rephrase it this way: The car drives OK despite the front end damage. I know of several race cars that are used bent, even today. Does not make it right.
    You'll get critics. I would straighten it, considering the amount of work put in already.
    I will study it with my father, could that straightening process be postponed until the oxide work is finished? I would like that when the car leaves the garage it only comes out once for everything and straightening this in my garage I do not think it is easy. Can you check how straight the chassis is with a laser meter or similar? Methods? Thanks George!

  7. #457
    Tape measure is your friend. Check that the diagonals are the same, use all the suspension pickup points. That will tell you quite a lot already.
    Factory references would be better.

  8. #458
    Senior Member HughH's Avatar
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    something like this might help see how straight or otherwise it is

    but you would have to have it set up in a way that you could measure it properly and there does not seem to be room in your garage to have a rotisserie or similar to use to measure it properly. I think this one is correct for a 1972 car.
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    Hugh Hodges
    73 911E
    Melbourne Australia

    Foundation Member #005
    Australian TYP901 Register Inc.

    Early S Registry #776

  9. #459
    thanks to both of you. Should I check all the points or just the front points? On the other hand, an idea occurred to me. It would be possible to use a "plumb line" (thread with a lead at the end) to place it at each point, so I make the mark on the ground. I go to the next point and do the same. Then I measure. I understand that this method will not be precise, but I would be interested in methods to check the chassis without turning it around! Anyway, this is one, but maybe, I'm saying absurd things.

    +photos from almost the beginning ...
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    Last edited by _gonbau; 05-27-2020 at 05:03 AM.

  10. #460
    Senior Member HughH's Avatar
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    that would certainly be worth trying although as you say it may not be completely accurate
    but it should be accurate enough to see if you have a significant problem or not
    Hugh Hodges
    73 911E
    Melbourne Australia

    Foundation Member #005
    Australian TYP901 Register Inc.

    Early S Registry #776

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