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Thread: Building an R

  1. #1

    Building an R

    Taking my '71e to the next level. Yes another R replica. I had a '72 that I made a RS but I really like the narrow body.
    Couple of newbie questions, I read in Excellence was expected that there were 3 prototypes and 20 production cars. The prototypes had fiberglass, fenders bumpers, hood and engine lid. And they did not have the oil tank on the right fender? Correct?
    The production 20 had lighter steel panels and fiberglass, hood, bumpers and the oil tank in the right fender?
    I've seen pics of some with the standard blinker lights and some with the R ones. Was the LW lights an option?

    Anyway I bought new steel fenders, I figure I could either modify them to take the R lights or get fiberglass fenders. Were any steel fenders actually used on the production R's? Or am I reading the book wrong?

    And in regards to the R oil tank. Obviously I'd be starting from scratch, is the '72 or 993 a better option?

    Lastly, I noticed while grinding my '71 that the torque tube bar was cracked. What options do I have? Weld the crack, or replace the tube?

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    No idea why it attaches my iPhone pics upside down.
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  2. #2
    Moderator Chuck Miller's Avatar
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    No idea why it attaches my iPhone pics upside down.
    Not sure but will try to help...

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    Chuck Miller
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Harvey Weidman's Avatar
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    There are some real R experts (Ernie W. and others) out there but I'll start with what I know (sort-of)
    I always thought there were 4 prototypes and the ones that I have seen photos of had the oil tank (this may have been added later?)
    I was told that the Rs used stock fenders with stock lights in some races to try to comply with the production rules.

    You might decide if you are making a replica or a tribute with generous interpretations.
    The Rs were SWBs and you will have a tough time making your car look exactly like an R.
    This forum has some very nice SWBs built with R type details...Still probably not really replicas.
    If you want to build a tribute with some R type details...and some of your own... that would be a definite possibility.
    Look at Darren's build to see what I am talking about. He also started with LWB and by adding some very neat details wound up with a stunning car that pays homage to Rs and other Porsche race cars.
    H

  4. #4
    Thanks Harvey for the compliment, I would be glad to help Seafeye, or anyone with R info, for the iphone upside down photos, maybe the phone was held upside down when the photo was taken, go to photos, choose a photo that is saved on your phone and open it, in the upper right you will see "Edit", open it, in the lower left you will see "Cancel" just to the right of that, see the crop symbol with arrows around it to rotate, press that symbol, you can then either crop (white lines around photo) and or rotate (the white square with arrow) this will change the upside down to right side up photo, and save it.
    Ernie W
    member of Early 911S Registry

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seafeye View Post
    Taking my '71e to the next level. Yes another R replica. I had a '72 that I made a RS but I really like the narrow body.
    Couple of newbie questions, I read in Excellence was expected that there were 3 prototypes and 20 production cars. The prototypes had fiberglass, fenders bumpers, hood and engine lid. And they did not have the oil tank on the right fender? Correct?
    The production 20 had lighter steel panels and fiberglass, hood, bumpers and the oil tank in the right fender?
    I've seen pics of some with the standard blinker lights and some with the R ones. Was the LW lights an option?

    Anyway I bought new steel fenders, I figure I could either modify them to take the R lights or get fiberglass fenders. Were any steel fenders actually used on the production R's? Or am I reading the book wrong?

    And in regards to the R oil tank. Obviously I'd be starting from scratch, is the '72 or 993 a better option?

    Lastly, I noticed while grinding my '71 that the torque tube bar was cracked. What options do I have? Weld the crack, or replace the tube?

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    Attachment 382858


    No idea why it attaches my iPhone pics upside down.
    You need to replace the tube. It is not a difficult as it may seem. Just get a used tube (must be from a LWB car) from a rust free car and replace the tube from inboard of the frame rails. There are plenty of those things laying around in a junk yard in Emeryville.

    Regards

    Jim

  6. #6
    Thanks for the suggestion. In order to replace the tube will I need a Jig to align the car on? And will the rear seats need to be cut out to get welds 360 round?

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    Every time I see a rear tube replaced, the rear seat bottom is removed to access the area with welding. Chris
    1. Chris-Early S Registry#205
    2. '70 911S Tangerine
    3. '68 911L Euro Ossi Blue

  8. #8
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seafeye View Post
    Thanks for the suggestion. In order to replace the tube will I need a Jig to align the car on? And will the rear seats need to be cut out to get welds 360 round?
    No, you won't need a Jig. The job is fairly straight forward. It does help to have a portion of the floor removed so you can access 360 degrees of the tube, though.

    Regards

    Jim

  9. #9
    If thats the only thing you notice why not weld and gusset?

  10. #10
    Here is a good play-by-play of torsion tube replacement from our friend Chuck Moreland, his example is SWB, but it illustrates the procedure:
    http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...r-project.html
    1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen

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