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Thread: Cleaning with dry ice

  1. #21
    Senior Member VintageExcellen's Avatar
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    Marek, the $18,000 number is for the small Karcher dry ice blaster but as with all shop tools price gets you in the door and the you realize how much time it takes to do the job, so the small blaster may be a total waste of time as you will spend 10 time more in labor and hassle. I am not saying this $18k machine works, just that it is the entry level price for this equipment. I say that there is another machine to feed the dry ice to the gun and I have no idea what is involved so this makes the $18k figure even less reliable. But $500k seems like a number I can make a machine myself for.

    Dusty cars claims to be only dry ice blasting his cars undercarriage and some of the bottom of his cars take great pictures but is he telling the whole story - doubt it.

    Another person I know claims the dry ice removes undercoat. These are claims are by guys who are also known to be bullshit artists so you never know.

    All I have ever heard of is claims but I have yet to see a the process in action, only seen the claimed end result. Most of my work has actually been a combination of multiple processes starting with good old hand labor and wire wheels on a big angle grinder removing a bulk of the material, then using sanding pads on a DA, chemical stripper, sand blasting soda blast sometime (although you do not want to use soda on any surface with exterior paint as the base in the soda reacts with the acid etching primers and can absolutely cause bubbling- paint manufactures void all warranties if you car has been soda blasted). Mostly the sand blasting on my cars is done on the areas where you can not reach with a DA sander or wire wheel and I have not always blasted every car.

    Chris makes some good points but I have yet to see cars have panels that ripple because they were blasted and then driven, even vintage race cars. It's kind of like the science of electroplating cast iron - I have been told by plenty of people that a cast iron parts must be baked right out of the plating tank or the metal will crack - I have yet to see even the slightest crack on any cast iron I have done when the part is not baked. So the science may be correct but then there is reality and if the area of concern is actually happening on our cars - maybe a spacecraft goes through different conditions and it will happen in that world. I am not saying Chris is wrong at all just that I have yet to see it even on cars that have been blasted to death.

    Oh and on the cooling of dry ice, maybe I am miss speaking, sandblasting causes a lot of heat, the dry ice and dustless blasting do not add heat to the metal so they knock off particles a little differently.

    Right now the answer is that there is no one answer. I am afraid to sandblast my big flat panels, I am also a bit worried about acid dipping a body of a 911, and I am afraid of what the dustless blaster could do because of the water/bare metal combo, although undercarriages should not be a problem with the dustless blaster only the areas that have final color applied are to be worried about.

    JP, when you go see the dry ice blaster demo maybe you can take a camera and record the action of the machine. If you have some cut up Porsche body section or fender or bumper lying around your shop maybe you could bring a piece and have them use the machine on an actual Porsche piece rather than watching them strip an item they provide.

    Dustless blasting company shows a Cadillac being stripped in one of their you tube videos, however if you look closely the video is a setup as the car was painted with a single thin layer of paint - door handles, rubber, trim all are covered in the red paint as if they staged the shoot to make the machine look like it works fast.

    Much more info experience and knowledge needed on this topic but great discussion.
    Last edited by VintageExcellen; 07-17-2016 at 03:55 AM.

  2. #22
    Senior Member uai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VintageExcellen View Post
    Another person I know claims the dry ice removes undercoat. These are claims are by guys who are also known to be bullshit artists so you never know.
    Yes Dry Ice removes undercoat, but it depends which one.
    It will have problems or fail in removing PVC undercoat, but for (sorry I just know the german word) "bitumen" or Wax based undercoat it works pretty well.
    We've had several thick layers of smeary old bitumen undercoat on our e9 - it was removed quite nice although it took two days to strip.
    There the temperature is an advantage - it's enough if the wax or bitumen surface is cooled down to enable it to remove it pretty good - sure it won't cool the metal down that much.
    Another good thing with dry ice is cleaning carpets that have stains (even oily or greasy).



    Cheers

    Uli
    Last edited by uai; 07-17-2016 at 04:16 AM.

  3. #23
    Hi, I have some movies somewhere of the process being used and first hand use of this equipment over a weekend, so by means an expert user. As with all these processes there is no final and full process which is the best, which is why a combination or process matched to the exact task, is the best approach. We have hand stripped, had dipped, blasted with all types of media etc many, many shells and our process now is to assess each shell and match the stripping process used. In an ideal world I would have an ice blaster to hand, but the need for another enclosed trailer took precedence in our case.

    Let me try and find the movies I took.

    Thanks

    Alan
    Last edited by Alan.uk; 07-17-2016 at 05:14 AM.

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by VintageExcellen View Post
    It's kind of like the science of electroplating cast iron - I have been told by plenty of people that a cast iron parts must be baked right out of the plating tank or the metal will crack - I have yet to see even the slightest crack on any cast iron

    Oh and on the cooling of dry ice, maybe I am miss speaking, sandblasting causes a lot of heat, the dry ice and dustless blasting do not add heat to the metal so they knock off particles a little differently.

    Cracking caused by Electroplating is a common issue with Zinc Plating and is well known, the standard 'fix' is to bake in a controlled environment at around 200 degC for a few hours depending on the strength of the material being plated.

    The problem occurs due the the fact that not all of the current being applied to the bath is used in depositing zinc and this causes Hydrogen Ions to be produced on the surface of the metal being plated.

    Hydrogen ions (single atoms) will diffuse into the grain boundaries of the metal and in the 'triple points' where grains meet they will combine to form Hydrogen Molecules.

    The thermodynamics of this process is very favourable and the volume expansion that occurs causes cracks to develop within the microstructure of the steel.

    This commonly leads to subsequent fatigue failures and the evidence of intergranular cracking is easy to see on the remaining fracture surfaces.

    I am not surprised that you will never see Cast Iron components suffer from this problem.

    Low strength materials such as a typical Grey Cast Iron just don't suffer from this problem. A brake caliper is typically Grade 14 Cast Iron and I would never have any concerns about zinc plating these parts.

    Metric fasteners of Grade 8.8 are also unlikely to suffer from Hydrogen Embrittlement but some manufacturers will bake for 3-4 hours.

    Grade 12.9 does start to be a cause for concern and baking times of 8 hours would be sensible.

    Once components made for steels of around 1800MPa (250ksi) are considered baking times would increase to around 24 hours.

    This is a very real issue and it is always a concern when we plate high strength suspension components. The cracking may not always be visible on the surface and the subsequent fatigue cracks which lead to catastrophic failures can take years to grow to a critical length.

    All steel aircraft parts that have been cadmium or zinc electroplating would be subjected to this procedure on a routine basis and the current used for plating a specific surface area of parts would be carefully controlled to minimise risk.

    When we randomly barrel plate parts with poor current control we substantially increase the risk of cracking susceptible parts.

    With regard to heat generation during blasting it is interesting to consider what is happening.

    If a part is badly treated and heavily blasted with heavy cast iron shot then I think there may be some heating.

    I don't think sand blasting a body will generally create much in the way of heat. We have a blasting company on our site and they occasionally blast shells with crushed glass, but never the Class A panels.

    The first shell we saw that generated ripples was a Mk2 Jaguar which was used in a famous UK TV Show for several years. It was restored by a local Company and after around 6 months the roof developed very visible 'waves' in the panel.

    The fixed it by using a vinyl roof which I thought looked terrible.

    Acid Dipping is worrying and we have two different processes being used in the UK.

    One process uses Hydrochloric Acid and whilst it does remove all traces of corrosion it does cause issues with it leaching out of seams in subsequent months/years.

    We tried this process once about 10 years ago and have never used it again.

    We developed a method using an inhibited Phosphoric/Citric Acid system that we have now used for the last 10 years.

    We have never seen issues with the seams on any shells and the passive surface that is produced is quite stable and does not discolour for around 12 months after processing.

    Stripping shells is always a difficult decision but we have now dealt with around 40 body shells using pyrolysis and phosphoric acid with good results.


  5. #25
    Not sure about what it does to the sheet metal..but looks a a "cool" way to remove the paint from the Z
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_9n...164D76A746CC8B

    other uses in action
    https://www.youtube.com/user/CryoDetail/videos

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5B5W...6CC8B&index=20

    removing ink from a business card...no damage to the paper
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dolEJsA1gY
    Last edited by RC70SCoupe; 07-17-2016 at 12:24 PM.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    Ray Crawford
    Early S Registry #271
    R Gruppe #255
    '70 911 S Coupe 2.9 w/MFI Twin Plug "Flairs n Chairs"
    '72 911 S Targa 2.4 w/MFI

  6. #26
    Bitumen = asphalt
    Peter Kane

    '72 911S Targa
    Message Board Co-Moderator - Early 911S Registry #100

  7. #27

    Cleaner than any other way

    I decided to be a test mule...Had my appointment at Cryo-Werks.

    I could not be happier...Alex, Bryant and Adam are Very professional, and delivered even better as promised.
    NO way I could have cleaned with the efficiency without taking the car apart. Hours would have been spent using chemicals, countless shop rags, contaminated water run-off into the ocean, thrown away clothes.

    Since I believe they are the only ones using this on the West Coast, its worth the drive.
    Attached Images Attached Images    
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    Ray Crawford
    Early S Registry #271
    R Gruppe #255
    '70 911 S Coupe 2.9 w/MFI Twin Plug "Flairs n Chairs"
    '72 911 S Targa 2.4 w/MFI

  8. #28
    No way a wire brush and simple green or ??? could have done this
    Attached Images Attached Images    
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    Ray Crawford
    Early S Registry #271
    R Gruppe #255
    '70 911 S Coupe 2.9 w/MFI Twin Plug "Flairs n Chairs"
    '72 911 S Targa 2.4 w/MFI

  9. #29
    Definitely worth the value of having it done

    Nothing damaged, all electrics, finishes on the paint, wheel wells are just CLEAN
    Attached Images Attached Images       
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    Ray Crawford
    Early S Registry #271
    R Gruppe #255
    '70 911 S Coupe 2.9 w/MFI Twin Plug "Flairs n Chairs"
    '72 911 S Targa 2.4 w/MFI

  10. #30
    Senior Member
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    Dry ice blasting machines

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveFromNY View Post
    Yep, that's why I'm going to Dallas.
    I was looking here
    http://www.dryiceclassified.com/used.htm
    They have some with as little as two hours on them
    Doug Lehman
    Member #2825
    1966 912



    1978 911SC Targa fun in the sun

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