respray is booked, now what?

[Blink]

This is the first respray I have ever had done on a car, and while my paint guy Does have a decent Porsche resume including recs from very experienced friends - any tips on process or what to request or watch out for? The car has been resprayed once, about 25 years ago..

Brand of paint? - PPG / Glasurit?

Process - one stage, two stage..

Color Matching - said he could match the orig color - but is it better to use the paint codes?

Door gaps, seams..

Thanks!

[Orbit]

Just tell him you want it "Perfect", and you have all your bases covered

The long version is a lot of advise from many people and if you painter is anything like the 3 or 4 painters I use, he is going to do his own thing anyways. I realize this advice is not even worth 2 cents, but it is FREE !

Rodger

[Gearby]

I would personally stay away from PPG. I repainted my 72 back in 93 with PPG acrylic urethane matched to my original light Ivory paint. It wasn't even close. The same thing happened to somebody else on here too.

[Haasman]

Have your painter show you his Porsche work on a similar year and model.

[csbush]

I would go with color matching instead of just following the paint code unless you are doing a total re-spray, doors off, windows out, etc.

I am torn on the single stage vs two stage. Both cars I have had done recently, I have had done in two stage. I am working on another car that I am doing myself, and I am going to go with single stage urethane. I think it will be easier to maintain.

PPG vs Glasurit- I would liked to have used the Glasurit, but didn't have a choice with the shop I was using. Not sure how much difference there really is so I didn't worry about it. I can tell you it wouldn't matter at a PCA concours, perhaps at Pebble Beach---I just don't know

Make sure you are specific on what you want. Perfect is a good description, but you should be clear. How much disassembly is there, are you painting the insides of the doors, under the hood, deck lid etc. Door gaps and seams are an example of something that you will not be happy with if you paint the car and they are not right. Good to have a conversation with the shop on what you expect.

Communication is key. The difference between a $6,000 paint job and a $15,000 paint job is in those details. You should get what you expect, and what you pay for.

[Blink]

Really appreciate the feedback guys

[Haasman]

Blink- where are you thinking of having it painted?

[91133]

I'm not sure what your original colour is but to get close to some of the late 60's and early 70's colours you have to be sure he matches the original opacity as well as the undercoat colour. we spent an age on my aubergine but the result was well worth it

[Jim Morris]

I'm assuming that on the respray 25 years ago the paint was not stripped to bare metal. If this is the case, you now have two multi-coat layers of paint (who knows how thick) and perhaps are planning on only a block sanding, seal, and 2-3 more coats of material. This invites grief in the future. If this were my car, given these conditions, I would insist on a bare metal repaint, biting the bullet for the large increase in cost to do so. As others have noted above, you simply must discuss this with the painter. Putting modern, expensive urethane over existing thick factory enamel (or worse, lacquer, if that was used on the respray) is really a bad idea. As other colleagues have suggested above, it is crucial that you get details of the painter's plan (Strip to bare metal? Replace any old filler? Necessary body work? Door jams and under panels? Fenders and doors removed and replaced? All glass out, new seals and replaced?). If you can get an outstanding paint job, including quality materials (e.g., Glasurit) for less than $25,000, I congratulate you, and I worry at the same time. I paint most of my own cars, but the shop I refer people to charges $30 - 40 thousand for a superior paint job (depending on how much body work is involved). After you get details of the painter's plan and your agreements, come back and let us know. We can offer more focused advice.

[raspy2point2]

I think original paint formula's applied to modern day paint bases do not equal accurate factory tone of color. I notice PPG for example comes out a little dark when the factory formula is used. I would say Glasurit would be closer to factory color tones. Some people want the factory color to be slightly to one side darker or lighter. To each his own. Chris