Hints on Splitting '68 Lower Ball Joint from Steering Arm Please

[MikeyC]

Hi,

I have been trying to swap out a lower-ball joint on my '68 T, but can't get the ball joint part to pop out from the steering arm. Here's a picture of what I've got, looking defiant on the kitchen table, against a backdrop of calming polka-dots:


Any hints or tips on how to get these apart greatly appreciated. So far, I've tried knocking it out, no joy, then a claw-type ball joint separator, this didn't seem to budge it, so tried some higher force with a hydraulic bearing puller, but this promptly blew a seal! I haven't used heat yet, as also want to recover a good ball-joint from another pair, so didn't want to melt the rubber and burn all the grease out. Am I missing something, as it seems particularly stubborn and well stuck in arm? I'm assuming they must separate, since the ball-joint is available as a separate service item, and the ball-pin must pop through the arm somehow?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Mike.

[911T1969]

Harbor Freight has these. item #99849 $21.99

Edit : ok, reread your post. Saw that you tried a claw type separator. These will work. Spray PB Bladter, let soak. Then carefully use a small propane torch and heat the link only. Then tighten the separator till you can't stand it any longer. Should POP! Wear safety glasses.

[Jon B]

I have been trying to swap out a lower-ball joint on my '68 T, but can't get the ball joint part to pop out from the steering arm.

Mike, the factory manual recommends that you use a press or a suitable puller.
If you don't have a press, you might take it to a local service or machine shop and ask if they're equipped to separate the pieces for you.
Have them show you that they can get under the steering arm and support it sufficiently without damaging it.



Jon B.
Vista, CA

[MikeyC]

Thanks Jon B and 911T1969, looks like I'm on the right track, but the claw separator fingers don't quite seem to be putting enough pressure on the pin before slipping off, and my 10 ton puller seems to have bust it's guts before the magic 'pop'. I was concerned I was missing something since the load was getting so high, but I'll see if I can get another puller or press on it with some careful heat. Thanks again.

Mike.

[MikeyC]

ok, here's an update for anyone interested or who might be in a similar situation:

What finally worked for me was with the arm firmly held in a vice, a mechanical (not hydraulic - no risk of oil seals blowing) bearing puller on it, wound down onto the pin as hard as I'd dare go (goodness knows the torque, but it was full force leaning onto a 18" breaker bar, enough for the nose of the puller to start burying itself into the taper-pin thread), then plenty of heat around the taper-pin area, then, standing well back, and checking I had my safety glasses AND my steel toe-cap boots on (don't do this without these on!), then one firm 'whack' with a lump hammer down the shaft of the bearing puller finally knocked it out - hooray!

The ball-joint shot out with some force onto the workshop floor, so was glad I had the boots on. I subsequently split another 2 pairs, which came apart much easier, so I think I was just unlucky with this stubborn first part. Afterwards, I thought that I could also have tried doing this with the nut still on the taper-pin, but wound out to the top of the thread, as it may have prevented some thread distortion (only a problem if you want to save the ball-joint) and it would have stopped the ball-joint flying out the end once freed.....

....I was rather enjoying the drama of it though!

Cheers,

Mike.

[304065]

"And was Jerusalem builded here, amongst these dark Satanic mills!"

Good job Mike. Working on old suspension bits inevitably requires a hydraulic press, a big hammer and fire.

Have you decided to do the bushings on the control arms yet? This is another task requiring Hephastean hammer and tongs.

http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...SWB-suspension

[MikeyC]

Hilarious! Great encouragement and great thread link, thanks. Bushes are good on the 'T (for now), but the 'S needs doing. Can't wait!

[66S]

Be aware that when heating a ball joint the cap can fly off with a lot of momentum. I was heating a lwb type ball joint once and the cap flew off with a small explosion and put a baseball size dent in a door skin nearby. If I was in the line of fire it would not have been good at all.

[Toffynose]

Two large hamers in action I oppositete directions
Worked for me