Rear window defrost/repair question

[Jim Breazeale]

I had the rear window on a 69 going to media blast removed. The defrost wires weren't connected and we found the prongs missing. Does someone sell replacements and can they be soldered back on?
Chris

Chris

Don't bother. All you will do is waste a bunch of time and possibly a small amount of money. I've got 50 of those things and I'll bet not one of them works. The only good thing about that glass it that it is not a later "2 stage" heated glass that would be twice the PITA to try and repair.

Regards

Jim

[71gold]

If you really want to repair with new tabs check out Planned Products in Boulder CO.
They show a defroster repairs . There is a photo showing the tabs .
Also other defrost repair items .

[NeunElf]

I had a connector tab fall off the rear window of my Boxster (2003 was the first year with a glass rear window) and I believe I fixed it with Permatex® Rear Window Defogger Electrically Conductive Tab Adhesive from a Friendly Local Auto Parts Store.

It wasn't all that difficult and the rear defrost works (although a couple strips may not be heating up). If your windows are out of the car it should be easy (compared to working under a Porsche rear window).

[tcsracing1]

interesting.

i will be installing my 1969 rear window next month.
i should see what condition my rear window defrost is.

[Florio]

Hi, I don't know about the heater wires since I never could find a good solution, but it's easy to solder the tabs back on. Glass holds well to heat and I have soldered tabs back on a tempered glass without problems.
Good luck, and let us know if you find a solution to the heater wires on the glass

[Florio]

Hi, I don't know about the heater wires since I never could find a good solution, but it's easy to solder the tabs back on. Glass holds well to heat and I have soldered tabs back on a tempered glass without problems.
Good luck, and let us know if you find a solution to the heater wires on the glass

[Chris Pomares]

Thanks everyone. This has been a very interesting thread.
Chris

[indescikov]

I had one missing tab. Fabricated a duplicate based on other remaining, solder on just fine. Tinned the copper tab prior to soldering on glass. Had to move down slightly due to damaged silver tape where prior tab was located.

[Rex1968s]

Ok, glad I found this thread. My defogger wasn’t working, and the wires didn’t look all that right as the car is modified. I’m about to install a new headliner, so I figured I take a crack at troubleshooting it before reinstalling the back window with the new seal.

It’s a 2 stage switch
3 terminals
I have 12V +/- at all 3 tabs, on both settings
The other side is grounded to the chassis

I am not getting any readings/ohms/continuity across the windshield. What is the likelihood that all 3 elements, and every trace wire has an open lead?

Can someone share a picture of where to ring out the wires, I’m sure I’m doing it right, maybe.

[tom1394racing]

The best way to test the heating elements is to use a test light and a 12 V power source. Connect the positive lead of the power source to one of the tabs on the end of the heating element and the negative end to your test light. Very gently probe your heating element moving away from the positive connector along the heating element. As long as the test light lights, you’ve got continuity. I found with most of these old defrost windows, the heating elements are damaged, often very close to the power input source. I have never tried to repair one.