Recommended CO level/range for 2.7 RS Engine?

[73ess]

Roger that. Well I know for sure that a part load CO of 3.5% isn't rich enough. I'll keep raising the CO level until the surging goes away. Will let you know what CO setting I end up at. I'll set both the part load AND idle CO to the same percentage.

I might have been a little "heavy"on that, but point is today's fuels don't necessarily work with previous settings. You have to set the numbers for what "works" and not be tied to what previously worked.

[uai]

just an uneducated question.
Isn't it a bit antique testing CO in driving conditions. I have a 14point7 permanently installed and wouldn't go back to anything else.
I've chosen this system with the iphone as display because it allows me not to have any modern displays ruining the look of the interior.

[73ess]

Hmm...I'm down to my last "richer" click on the part throttle mixture set screw and my measured CO @2500rpm is only 3.75%. I can't get the mixture any richer than that. I'm guessing that's not normal. Haven't tried the idle mixture screw yet, so I'll see how rich I can get the idle mixture before I run out of clicks. I'm turning the part throttle mixture screw ccw for richer and I know the idle mixture spring loaded screw goes clockwise for richer.

The 6% number is the idle setting, adjusted with the spring loaded idle mixture screw. The load setting is another matter, a no-load setting for that range was usually in the 9% range, which would equate to around 3-4% under load (full throttle 3rd gear). While it's correct that adjusting the load screw (rack adjustment) will affect BOTH idle and load, and the idle screw will ONLY affect idle, as to which you adjust depends on which range you're trying to correct. Normally the procedure is drive and adjust the load setting, then finish up with the idle setting, since that won't affect the load setting.
73 CIS will need about the same idle percentage, but there is only ONE adjustment, which affects all ranges.

[edmayo]

You're down to the 'last click' on the rack adjuster???? IF THAT IS really the case there are other problems afoot! I've never found the 'last' click adjustment on the rack setting, can't imagine having to go that far! Have you verified all the linkages are set to the right length, such as the pump control rod to 114 mm center to center? All other links pop on with no pretension? Is this an RS pump, or at least one that has had the 'cam' converted?

[Robert5995]

UAI -

Which 14point7 product did you get, and why? Thanks!

- Rob

[uai]

Hi I have the idash WB02 (but not on a porsche) for a porsche I'd probably go for the dual WBO2 to be distinct between left and right cylinders.
I have always had the bung for a wideband lambda in most exhaust collectors of my cars and was mostly just installing temporarily during setup/break in and later whenever I changed something like airbox / air filter housing/ injectors / or fiddled around with my carb.
I had a car that had an annoying lean spot and I was very glad to get a reading during many trials with creating/drilling jets playing with bowl level and mixture tubes and finally adding some holes in my carb.
What was always annoying were the ugly displays and the need to drill holes or route the cabling along the body through the door rubbers.
With the Idash it's fairly simple throw it somwhere invisible and if you feel the need to check your a/f simply connect your phone to the WIFI of the idash(or Tablet -> better / larger display)
So far my experience with it is good it just does what it should - only needs 2 cables + and -(or 4 if you attach the heating for the lambda separately).

It has lost twice the wifi settings, but that's an issue of the router not the idash itself. Takes a laptop and 2 minutes to undo if you have set up a wifi router before.
I will probably do some more with regards to logging in future by adding a RPM and Throttle position sensor.

Cheers
Uli

[73ess]

Yes, 114mm center to center. No pretension on other links. Number on the pump is 0408 126 019. The 9 looks to be restamped so I’m assuming it’s had it’s cam converted. Anything else to check?

You're down to the 'last click' on the rack adjuster???? IF THAT IS really the case there are other problems afoot! I've never found the 'last' click adjustment on the rack setting, can't imagine having to go that far! Have you verified all the linkages are set to the right length, such as the pump control rod to 114 mm center to center? All other links pop on with no pretension? Is this an RS pump, or at least one that has had the 'cam' converted?

[edmayo]

Check fuel pressure both on the input side (approx. 30 psi) and on the return side (10 to 13 psi)