Door check help

[dummkopf]

My car was missing the passenger side door check... Well it had one, but the bolt pattern was different so only one fastener was installed. So I ordered another, and get the same thing.

I took the passenger side off and confirmed both doors have a narrower bolt pattern. The check I have also has an actual spring in it and uses socket head bolts instead of hex. I also checked the earlier year 911 and it is not the same either, incase the doors had been replaced... But they have silver paint under the door panels and have the black swabbed around the door panel to hide the color while the doors were closed, so I assume they are original.

[edmayo]

Those are superseded door checks which require a slight slotting of the holes. And they are made for the heavier late model doors and therefore too strong for the lighter earlier doors. If you have to use them we find they work better if you sand down most of the 'hump' on the strap. When the earlier door straps are still there we rebuild them.

[dummkopf]

Thank you so much! This was so puzzling for me. I looked at the newer check I removed from the car, and there was really no hump, but the new one... I see what you mean.

How hard are the originals to find, and will they swap sides? I see keepers so it can be serviced, and it appears you can put the spring on the bottom/top as well.... Or should it have two springs?

[Richy]

The door stops are the same , left and right . and the original should have two springs . The rebuild kits come with springs . 914 door stops are basically the same , the arms are different , but you get arms when you buy the kits .

[edmayo]

I think both Stoddard and probably S.M. have the 911 rebuild kits now. I used to just deburr the strap, pirate rollers from other door stops, and get springs at Ace Hdw. but now you can just buy a rebuild kit.

[LiveFromNY]

I bought one of these recently and it was well made:

https://www.carpoint.de/ersatzteile/...911-69-72.html

[endo911rs]

What is the best solution when you still get clicking upon opening or closing the door? The click is obviously coming from the pin moving in a slightly oblonged hole in the chassis retaining tab.

[Rick Cabell]

Not fun. Usually owners don't deal with the problem until it is so bad the the receiver that is welded to the car's post has it's holes become oblong. And because the holes are so close to the post, you can't get in there to drill the holes oversize and round again.
What I do is take a long round file and slowly work the hole round again. It can take a lot of time and needs patience. Once the hole is perfectly round again, then you drill the arm on the door stop to match the bracket welded to the car post. Then, I make a pin on the lathe to fit very tightly into the hole.
At that point you have fixed the problem.

[endo911rs]

Thanks a Rick, that's what I have done also. In addition, McMaster makes some slightly tapered dowel pins. So usually filing out the top hole in the chassis allows for a secure fit with the tapered pin.

[dummkopf]

I bought one of these recently and it was well made:

https://www.carpoint.de/ersatzteile/...911-69-72.html

I assume it has the narrow bolt pattern like the original? Kind of pricey, but I really don't want to alter the car.