Best SWB textured Black coating

[Toffynose]

Hi

I have read all the posts on body finishing on the forum regarding the black textured coating on SWB cars (unique 65-68)

And have been very interested in watching Mike M on YouTube with his restoration of a 1967 911

In his. Video he use Rustoleum “Professional Grade” undercoat and appears to get great results !

My question is

1.has anybody used this technique
2. Is there a better way

Thanks

[Bullethead]

Hi

I have read all the posts on body finishing on the forum regarding the black textured coating on SWB cars (unique 65-68)

And have been very interested in watching Mike M on YouTube with his restoration of a 1967 911

In his. Video he use Rustoleum “Professional Grade” undercoat and appears to get great results !

My question is

1.has anybody used this technique
2. Is there a better way

Thanks

To answer the second question, yes. The correct material is Wurth SKS Schutz (stoneguard), and though the formulation is different than originally applied by Porsche, it's still the best choice to achieve the right texture. You'll also need the application gun which is available from several sources, often sold together with the schutz as a kit. Under $300 to do a complete car.

[Toffynose]

I disagree, I think the Wurth finish is very good but the Rustoleum undercoat is a lot more like factory for these eagerly cars
After 1968 the finish is more “Wurth like” but 1965-68 its very nearly a perfect match

[304065]

Except that it's too smooth. And it looks like Mike M used base/clear on the car. The Factory never precisely masked off the VIN stamping like that, they slapped a piece of tape over it and schutzed the hell out of the car and then yanked the tape off and left blobs of schutz everywhere and wheeled it out and went to lunch and had a liter of beer.

Doing it right these days means doing it SLOPPY like the Factory did.

$300? Maybe that gets you a few bottles but it takes like TWELVE bottles of Wuerth SKS schutz to do it right so figure more like $500, plus about 20 hours of work to set up, schutz and finish up. Getting the tape lines right takes a long time.

Schutzing is the second most expensive restoration process behind the paint itself.

[Bullethead]

I disagree, I think the Wurth finish is very good but the Rustoleum undercoat is a lot more like factory for these eagerly cars
After 1968 the finish is more “Wurth like” but 1965-68 its very nearly a perfect match

Since you already decided the Rustoleum finish was more accurate (it isn't) why the query? The correct finish is supposed to be lumpy.
The underside of my '67 is original and looks like a cat puked all over it. On both '68s I've owned it looked the same.

Except that it's too smooth. And it looks like Mike M used base/clear on the car. The Factory never precisely masked off the VIN stamping like that, they slapped a piece of tape over it and schutzed the hell out of the car and then yanked the tape off and left blobs of schutz everywhere and wheeled it out and went to lunch and had a liter of beer.

Doing it right these days means doing it SLOPPY like the Factory did.

$300? Maybe that gets you a few bottles but it takes like TWELVE bottles of Wuerth SKS schutz to do it right so figure more like $500, plus about 20 hours of work to set up, schutz and finish up. Getting the tape lines right takes a long time.

Schutzing is the second most expensive restoration process behind the paint itself.

It's been a few years but the last car I did was a BMW E9 (considerably more coverage area than a 911), used 6 bottles and didn't skimp. One pass is enough, getting it even is what counts. Either way, $500 is still really small beer to do the job right... but I wouldn't call it the second most expensive process in any restoration. It's simple to apply... as you say, prep time takes much longer than shooting the stuff.

[304065]

Russ, it's been a long time since you were up in NYC with us, hope you have been well.

Not sure how the E9 lays out (if there ever was a car that could have used more rust prevention at the factory!) but when we schutzed '065, not only did we do the entire underside, and fender wells, but also the engine compartment, inside the front trunk and the underside of the hood, taking pains to match the original sandpaper-like texture and masking line.

It was a giant task for sure.

[Bullethead]

Hey John, doin' OK, hope all is well... my bad, forgot about all those interior spaces to address that BMW chose not to. It is a time consuming, messy job, one performed by paid lackeys on our last 911 resto so all I should have proffered is the correct material and texture. FWIW, it was also several years ago that I restored my wife's 280SL, and that did take a dozen bottles of SKS... or more. Just to add to the appearance suggestion, here's another example:

[Tom F.]

Except that it's too smooth. And it looks like Mike M used base/clear on the car. The Factory never precisely masked off the VIN stamping like that, they slapped a piece of tape over it and schutzed the hell out of the car and then yanked the tape off and left blobs of schutz everywhere and wheeled it out and went to lunch and had a liter of beer.

Doing it right these days means doing it SLOPPY like the Factory did.

$300? Maybe that gets you a few bottles but it takes like TWELVE bottles of Wuerth SKS schutz to do it right so figure more like $500, plus about 20 hours of work to set up, schutz and finish up. Getting the tape lines right takes a long time.

Schutzing is the second most expensive restoration process behind the paint itself.

By "it" do you mean the Rustoleum product?

[Ivan Fuller]

Well I'll throw another cat amounst the pidgeons and suggest truck bed liner. With the righ thinning and experimentation and gun you can replicate the original. And its way more durable than wurth - you really can scrub the s**t off it without a mark. Not that theres anything wrong with Wurth apart from availability in some places.

[304065]

Russ that is a MONSTER condenser!

Yes, "It" refers to the Rustoleum product. The Factory sprayed on the original tar- like undercoating out of big barrels, and used a brush on the seam sealer, not pretty. The Karmann cars had it particularly thick. For those cars it works better to put the gun like 5" from the surface before spraying-- this accomplishes thick coating, which is still wet, and the air from the gun blows it around, creating a wave-like surface. For the Porsche cars, I think the gun was further from the surface- the coating is rougher, the droplets partially dried on the way to the surface. For the underside of the hood like sandpaper, a distance of 12' away causes the droplets to dry and make a very rough surface.

I didn't see these values reflected in the Youtube clip.