Ahh, upon closer reading, you are thinking about doing the alignment YOURSELF.
Well, to do that properly you need to be able to 1) set the ride height and 2) set caster, camber and toe.
Setting the ride height with vernier adjustable spring plates is VERY time-consuming and requires multiple iterations to accomplish. But it can be done. Your best ally is an electric impact driver for running the fasteners on and off. You unbolt the lower shock mount, then remove the bolts, nuts and washers that hold the spring plate to the trailing arm. Pull out the spring plate and rotate it the requisite number of turns up or down until the plate is at the right angle. You can use an iPhone app as a level, I think I used "IhandyLevel" but any one will work. Then reassemble, do the other side, put the wheel back on and drive the car around the block to settle the suspension, then measure. Through multiple trials of this you can get the rear height where you want it, then set the front height by indexing the torsion bar adjuster caps and turning the adjustment screws. This is a lot easier than the rear.
It would be a great idea to have access to a set of scales so that you can really dial in the ride height, but not sure how accessible these are for you.
Next most important measurement is camber. The preferred method is to use a digital camber gauge, like the one SmartRacing developed. Of course there are inexpensive digital levels available, and it's not difficult to fabricate a bridge that goes across the wheel lip that allows you to mount the gauge in the center.
Caster is a function of camber at varying steering angles and is a computation.
For measuring toe, you can either use the "string" method using jack stands to hold the strings away from the body, or use a facsimile, or the original, SmartStrings device.
You get the idea. The original 911 alignment book is out there on the Internet as well. By Ray Scruggs:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.p...post&id=363723
Hope this helps get you started!