Is it crazy difficult for a DIY to put 911/01 '68 SWB car? ...or maybe a 915?

[jmz]

I'm putting together a '68 Fun Mobile and trying to use parts that I have in the garage. For instance, I'm detuning an old 2.8 race motor that will go in it either as a Short Stroke 2.6 or I'll source a new set of lower compression 92mm pistons and simply run the long stroke 2.8 in the car.

I have both a 911/01 and a 915 box out of a '79. I'm trying to figure out what it would take to make either one of these work or if I should simply look for a 901 box (and put a trans cooler on it). It looks like the biggest challenge will be the axle flanges...

Anyone have any experience or knowledge to share on this one?

Thanks in Advance.

Jay`

[LiveFromNY]

This is EXACTLY the type of question I dream of being able to answer. Also, EXACTLY the kind of question that I will never be qualified to answer.

In the meantime, if you need help on turn signal lens date codes, hair gel, or mid-eighties glam metal, I'm your guy.

[9er]

I don't think matching the output flanges of the transmission will be a big deal.
However you will need to take the hammer to your tunnel/hump area to provide a bit of extra clearance.
Also there could be issues with adjustment if you use the 901 shift tunnel rod as it is slightly longer.

There are also a few different clutch mech variations over the years push vs pull etc.

[210bhp]

While your are in there making body modifications around the rear tunnel area you could consider removing a small section of the central rear floor and replacing with a cover plate. This would allow you to drop the engine and/or gearbox quicker and more easily in the future. Just a thought.

Regards
Mike

[Frank Beck]

In the meantime, if you need help on turn signal lens date codes, hair gel, or mid-eighties glam metal, I'm your guy.

John,
My product leaves me wanting by midday; it just won't support my pompadour. What do I do?

[jmz]

I don't think matching the output flanges of the transmission will be a big deal.
However you will need to take the hammer to your tunnel/hump area to provide a bit of extra clearance.
Also there could be issues with adjustment if you use the 901 shift tunnel rod as it is slightly longer.

There are also a few different clutch mech variations over the years push vs pull etc.

...man I think the hammer part will be way easier than figuring out the flanges, stub axles etc. I've done a few searches and haven't come up with anything that looks like an easy answer yet. I know someone here knows specifically what is needed, don't be shy!

[jmz]

This is EXACTLY the type of question I dream of being able to answer. Also, EXACTLY the kind of question that I will never be qualified to answer.

In the meantime, if you need help on turn signal lens date codes, hair gel, or mid-eighties glam metal, I'm your guy.

I can completely relate to this. ...well except for the hair gel part.

[jmz]

I appear to be largely having a conversation with myself here... Nothing out of the ordinary I guess.

Anyway I found this information posted by Grady (R.I.P.) on the Pelican site. Anyone have any thoughts on this or any other solution for use of the 911/01 on a '68 SWB?


grady 911/01
I used a type 911 transmission with a 225 mm pull-type clutch (Big clutch, 915 LSD, short gears.) I made adaptors between the 4-bolt, 2-pin flanges and the small 6-bolt SWB Lobro CV joints. The ’70-’71 clutch cable fits. I rebuilt my pedal assembly about then and used a clutch shaft from ’69 or ’70 that was longer lever than my ’68. You have to use the over-the-transmission engine oil out hose with this.

[9er]

If I was doing it I would look to see what size the output shaft flanges are on the proposed 915 (diameter and bolt size) then I would do the same with your drive shafts.

If there is a mismatch, see if you can buy output shafts to suit, if so buy them swap them over and job done.

Obviously easier to modify trans output shafts to suit drive shafts rather than vice versa.