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Thread: 1968 Suspension Pan Replacement Measurements

  1. #1

    1968 Suspension Pan Replacement Measurements

    I am about to have my suspension pan replaced and Im looking for the measurements to make sure its in the right place. I have found some illustrations but I'm not sure if they are for SWB cars. Can somebody tell me where to find them or post for me? Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Restoration newbie.
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    Does this help? Download and use your PDF viewer to zoom. The quality of this image is pretty good.

    Bodyshell 1.pdf

    andy
    67S in pieces
    EarlyS: 1358
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  3. #3
    I'm not getting the pdf when I click on the link, is there another link or site? Thanks

  4. #4
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    Restoration design has the Porsche drawing for swb. you can look at their support page and find that I asked the question you are asking.... It is resolved in the commentary if you read the comments.... Porsche did some strange annotations and made a lot of mistakes ...so beware...

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by bob joyce View Post
    Restoration design has the Porsche drawing for swb. you can look at their support page and find that I asked the question you are asking.... It is resolved in the commentary if you read the comments.... Porsche did some strange annotations and made a lot of mistakes ...so beware...
    Maybe I'm just not looking in the right place, I do see some measurements under resources but the one I'm looking for shows the length from the body to the bolt hole for the front pickup point on the a arm. I have found some diagrams on the net showing this measurement but it doesn't say whether its for SWB or later cars. Thanks

  6. #6
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    Restoration Design Resources has the Porsche drawings... You have to be careful with the dimensioning because some are given from the vertical zero datum plane, the perpendicular plane 5mm ahead of the suspension cross bar support bolt hole. when you say "from the body" where do you mean? ….If you have an intact car never hit before and you are only replacing the front suspension piece under the battery. The common practice is to leave your steering rack and cross member bolted to the car. remove the front a arm bolts (6) and remove the old pan piece and place the new using the steering rack to give your placement. Make sure you get it square and make sure the a arms are held back tight into the support member. Look at the support page of Restoration Design and you will see discussion and aproject that shows the steering rack and aarms being used to locate the position..... ultimately the steering rack and a arms has to bolt up..... If you are replacing the entire steering area. You have to measure from the center of the rear torsion bar forward to locate the bolt holes for the steering crossmember support that is 1774.65MM. Pluss or minus 2mm.... The early swb and lwb cars are the same back to the rear torsion bar...……. If that helps more.... Make sure you level the car when you do the work.. For and aft......

  7. #7
    The F and L measurements are what I'm looking. I'm replacing most of the front pan and the front latch section.
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  8. #8
    Or refer to workshop manual, body section, for necessary measurements.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    I have never seen that before ,,, my guess is that it is for a collision repair system. I would not use this..... First of all you do not have a defined "c" on your car. It is an unknown point to me. You are hoping to triangulate your pan into position. That would be fine if you had known points to start from "C' for example. Do you know EXACTLY were this point is? If not triangulation is inaccurate. The good thing is … If the picture is typical of the repair you are doing, then you are in luck.. Bolt your steering rack and a arms back on then bolt up the front a arm bolts onto the new front pan piece. This gives you the distance that you need to get the job done ….no other distance matters no matter were you get it from.... You should establish a centerline of the car. Mark it on the floor. Make absolutely shure the car is level ..very important.. between the a arms, in the middle drop a plum bob to insure that you have the pan centered... The elevation of the pan should be established by lining the new pan pinch welds with the old drilled out pinch welds. In this case if the car has not ben wrecked before just make both sides the same elevation.... If you are in doubt... you will have to level the car to the horizontal datum plane and check the relative elevations with the Porsche drawings that Restoration Design has on their site.... bye the way these drawings are in the Factory early Porsche shop repair manuals.... in the body section … Just a warning …. the problem with triangulation is that you have to be exact with the points you are measuring from and you must pull those points perfectly on plane/level. not as easy as one would think...

  10. #10
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    YES..... Ed ,you got that one in there while I was typing..... Factory manual ..body section But heed my warning....
    SPECIAL NOTE: Porsche is a Design Engineering Co. … They don't measure on angles like the above picture with lines labeled…
    ALL MEASURENENTS in the Factory PORSCHE Manual Body section are distances perpendicular or vertical ….. not distances from a bolt location to a bolt location etc. on an angle
    Last edited by bob joyce; 09-07-2018 at 07:47 PM.

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