I recently purchased an original pair of Bosch wiper blades from Dirk ( dirk07) and wanted to show how, in the grand scheme of maintaining and using our old cars, a small detail makes such a big difference. First picture shows both original blade (mounted) with current version on top, the second picture without the current version.
you are so right about the small details and imagine what a difference it would make if dirk would have also sent you a fender welting
Last edited by moito; 10-16-2018 at 11:36 AM.
Hilarious!!!!!!Originally Posted by moito
I've been using the Trico TR 13, they seem to contour to the windshield better, trouble is they only seem to be available from Amazon.
Early S Registry member #90
R Gruppe member #138
Fort Worth Tx.
I should have some. I can look next weekend
Can you show me what a fender welting is?
Rubber strip that goes between the cowl and the fender (in the gap in your picture).
https://www.stoddard.com/91179950307.html.html
69 911S #1379
65 356 SC #130757
Speaking of small details, the Stoddard one is wrong for early cars. It's a couple of mm too thick.
Ravi
Early 911S Registry # 2395
1973 Porsche 911S in ivory white 5sp MT
2015 Porsche Macan S in agate grey 7sp PDK
Re: "original Bosch"
SWF has been THE original supplier to the Porsche factory assembly line for wiper blades from the early 356 days.
Parts houses and even dealers sold Bosch replacements as they were more readily available and cheaper.
From your photos, your original early mounted blade looks like an early SWF unit, not Bosch. The loose, unmounted unit is obviously generic after market Bosch.
Look closely at your original blade frame...is the tiny "SWF" diamond mark there on the frame near the center pivot?
Today, even the current factory supplied SWFs look very much like the generic Bosch with a broader open "ladder" frame.
I find the original narrow SWFs in the bottom of boxes at swap meets today...usually as an after thought attached to the arms that the seller is trying to sell.
Mark Smedley
'59 VW Typ I
'69 911T 2.7
'86 930
'04 GT3
'16 Boxster GTS
'08 MBZ AMG CLK 63 Black Series
If you're careful and patient, it can be replaced by loosening the many fasteners that secure the fenders to the shell (at least those in the rear half of the fender) and slip it in from the top. Research the location for each fastener. There should be a strip of (sticky) puddy where the top section of the fenders meet the shell, which could be tricky to break loose; you only need to move the fenders away about 5 millimeters to tap the welting in place (goes in dry, only some light lube). There's a screw (or two?) you access with the door open that's hard to get, but critical to loosening because it's right in the welting area. So is the fastener up near the fuel fill drain. I've always done this as part of installing fenders - -maybe some who has replaced the welting afterwards could lend their experience as to how many of the fasteners really need to be loosened. If the sealing puddy is also missing, you may need to remove the fenders.
Last edited by John912; 10-20-2018 at 06:27 AM.
John Schiavone
Connecticut
356 Cab, 66 911, 914-6, 550-Beck, 981 Cayman, 54 MV Agusta Dustbid
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