How to prevent chemical damage to anodized surface Fuchs at tire mounting

[Zedone]

Well, I had a new tire mounted to recently refinished Fuchs. And although the shop was careful not to gouge the metal, evidently the tire mounting paste they use (no chemical ingredients listed) does damage the anodized surface as shown. A coating of vaseline masks the damage but when wiped dry, photo, its still permanently damaged.

Anyone else experience this?

Any thoughts how to prevent this next time around? Pre-coat wheels with vaseline? Liquid silicone?

-Zed

[JackMan]

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[Arne]

Besides owning numerous anodized wheels over the years, I spent almost 25 years in the tire service industry (first career). My thoughts:

The anodized finish can be damaged by either acidic or alkaline liquids. Only pH neutral washes, cleaners and lubricants should be used, but pH neutral mounting lubricants are not common—assume it will be at least somewhat alkaline. The damage is not instant, but can be accelerated if the wheels are warm or hot to the touch.

Once you select your tire installer, discuss the issue with the shop owner or manager before letting them proceed. If they do not seem attentive, or are condescending in their response, find another shop. Discuss your expectations, and be sure to mention the cost and turnaround time to have wheels correctly refinished should the finish be damaged by either the mounting process or the lubricant. Be prepared to discuss and inspect together the current condition of the wheels' finish with the shop owner/manager before the work begins. Make it clear that your expectation is no new damage from this work. Also make clear up front that should refinishing be necessary, it will be done by a specialty shop of your choosing, not someone the shop uses for this type of thing.

Items to discuss with the shop include the need to keep the wheels out of the sun and cool, minimal and careful use of mounting lubricant, and having a clean cloth soaked in clear water available to immediately flush any lubricant off the visible surfaces of the wheel once the tire is mounted. In no case do you want to let the lubricant sit on the wheels surface for more than 30-60 seconds or so. If the tech is careful, very little lubricant will end up where you don't want it. In absence of available clear water, have (or bring your own) pH neutral wheel cleaner to use.

Make an appointment, and be present at the shop during the work. If the shop will not do the work while you wait, or will not let you watch (at a reasonable safe distance), find another shop.

Never drive your 911 to the shop for this work. Always take the wheels off the car and deliver them loose. Also, do not lay them on an open pickup bed in the sun as you take them to the shop. These two items prevent damage from people who do not know how to jack up a 911, as well as making certain the wheels are cool.

As a final thought, I recommend that even if the shop has been careful in avoiding lingering contact with the lubricant during mounting, as soon as the tire is inflated and removed from the tire machine it should be rinsed with clear water. That means immediately, not 10-15 minutes later after all tires have been mounted, and definitely before the tire is balanced.

[19-911-65]

I used straight liquid dish detergent, worked like a charm. Wiped up any excess with a clean white cloth.

[Zedone]

I used straight liquid dish detergent, worked like a charm. Wiped up any excess with a clean white cloth.

For mounting tires?

[Longballa]

This is why I ship the tires to Harvey or the wheel finisher to mount. I know not always possible but that way you know they'll care about the final result.

[Arne]

Really? I go through a set of tires every 3-4 years. Shipping the wheels off to the wheel finisher every time you need a tire mounted seems way out of line to me. There are competent tire shops out there, you just need to find them and make sure they are on the same page as you are.

[sithot]

Soaps can be alkaline. https://www.motorcycleclassics.com/b...uin-your-tires

Here is the old school "sauce".

[72targa]

Soaps can be alkaline. https://www.motorcycleclassics.com/b...uin-your-tires

Here is the old school "sauce".

From the SDS for Ru-Glyde, it is also alkaline as it is 7% potassium hydroxide. That said, if you've had good experience with it, that speaks volumes.

[sithot]

From the SDS for Ru-Glyde, it is also alkaline as it is 7% potassium hydroxide. That said, if you've had good experience with it, that speaks volumes.

It's what "most" shops use but that doesn't mean there isn't a better mousetrap. Chrome wheels and steel wheels are safe.
The back side of a tire goes on easy. It's the front that's the bear. Have witnessed epic battles. Personally, I'd be inclined to wipe off the excess.

As the Motorcycle Classic article mentions, Armor All works too.
I've watched a friend who runs a vintage bike shop fight tires. Sometimes no amount of "slippery goo" seems to help. Seeing 1/4 of the tire across the front of the rim doesn't inspire any confidence that the rest is going on!