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Thread: Ready-Set-Go....

  1. #11
    Thanks for all the nice comments guys. All the fuel injection parts are there. The car was said to be running fine when parked, other then the clutch, so other than what has deteriorated from sitting all else should be good. Of course that leaves a lot of things that will need attention. Don't know when the H1s were added, but the third owner who worked at a Porsche dealership kept lots of receipts and a log of maintenance items and showed no record of adding them. At 50,000mi or so the throttle bodies were rebuilt by Eurometrics, the chain tennsioners were replaced and the car received new tie rod ends, brakes, and a host of other items.
    The first owner went on to start the largest independent Porsche shop in Tulsa. The second owner went through several Porsche 911's and owned a commercial heat and air company around the corner from the first owners shop. I was able to talk to him, but he wasn't able to tell me much, as now he is quite aged and his memory is not so good. The first and second owner are now deceased, however the first owners business partner is still alive.
    So my first order of business was to remove the fuel tank and ascertain wether or not it was worth trying to save. The car was parked with about 1/3 of a tank of gas which had evaporated, leaked, or a combination of both. After pulling the sending unit out I saw what looked like layers and layers of rust. After poking around with a long screwdriver I determined that it was actually the dried up gas. Next I removed the fuel plug and in tank filter and proceeded to scrape all the gunk I could. I dumped that out and took the tank to a car wash and sprayed around all I could. What I was left with was very encouraging, as where the high pressure water was able to make good contact it looked very good with hardly any rust. The tank will now sit for a couple of weeks with about 4 gallons of vinegar in it to see if that will loosen the rest. Meanwhile I've been preparing to drop the engine and have a question. The wires going into the alternator go through the fan shroud and it looks like I have to either remove the fan to get to them or take the whole wiring harness out with the engine, and I don't want to do that. What is the recommended procedure for dealing with the wires? Here's a picture of about 3/4s of what came out of the tank.
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    1969 911S
    1969 Datsun 2000...worth less, but more valuable

  2. #12
    Your engine wiring harness stays with the engine. There is a large black plug that connects at the base of the electrical console on the driver side of the engine compartment
    Disconnect the harness and fuel line and you are ready to go.
    If you don’t know already, it is typically easier to pull the engine and trans as a unit. Four large bolts (two at the engine crossbar and two at the front trans mount, cv joints and the shifter coupler. Put your large floor jack beneath the bell housing and the whole unit drops out nice and balanced.
    Renn-Spot - Cars & parts For Sale - http://renn-spot.blogspot.com/
    1970 911"S" - Black (originally silver)
    1974 911"S" - Silver
    1973 911"T" - Bahia Red - Now Sold
    10 sec 67 VW
    Early "S" Registry #439

  3. #13
    Sorry to be pessimistic but the crud from your fuel tank looks more like rust than varnish from gas. You should feel lucky if there are no pinholes when you're done cleaning.

  4. #14
    The 69 911 engine wiring harness is a bit unique. In addition to the large plug near the electrical console there are 3 or 4 smaller round plugs that must be removed from a console near the base of the rear firewall.

  5. #15
    Thanks for the tips.

    swcarrol, yes indeed it looks like rust and I will feel very lucky if I'm able to save the tank. Since the places I blasted it on the bottom look rust free and smooth I'm willing to spen a little time and money to see if it is salvageable.
    Cornpanzer, I went back and looked again for the plug you mentioned to no avail. I know that the engine has been out once before at about 30,000 miles for a clutch replacement. Perhaps the mechanic tucked the plug under or behind something and I just can't see it, it is very congested and tight in that area. Since all that was left to unhook (well until I start dropping the engine and see what I missed) was the alternator wires, I went ahead and removed the fan and then the wires.

    This is what I found behind the fan. Thought I had all the nests taken care of, as I probably could of filled a bushel basket with what I already removed!


    eprnjp, I was aware of the rear console and determined that only the far left plug needed to be unplugged, we shall see!

    One final question before the "big drop", I have unbolted the axles at the transmission, but they seem pretty happy where they're at. Is there a ridge or something on the flange or is it a flat to flat connection? I have lightly tapped it, but want to be certain there's nothing holding them in place other than friction before I get a little more aggressive with the hammer!
    Thanks again, all the advice is very much appreciated.
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    Last edited by Theunz; 12-22-2019 at 03:39 PM.
    1969 911S
    1969 Datsun 2000...worth less, but more valuable

  6. #16
    Senior Member lopena's Avatar
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    New Jersey
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    Here is the small electrical panel on the rear firewall of my 1969 911S:
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    Alan
    N.J.


    1964 E-Type roadster
    1969 911S
    1988 328GTB
    2002 Maranello

  7. #17
    For a 69 follow the alternator wiring around the rear crossmember to the left side relay board, disconnect the necessary wires from the regulator and junction block, then they come out with the engine in addition to one plug removed from the bracket as shown above. 69 is a one year only harness.
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

  8. #18
    Thanks lopena and Ed, as mentioned earlier I went ahead and pulled the alternator. Once the engine is out I'll get a better look at how the harness is routed and connected. I most likely will then unhook it and reinstall the engine with it attached.
    1969 911S
    1969 Datsun 2000...worth less, but more valuable

  9. #19
    Cv joints have two pins holding them to the flanges in addition to the four bolts. Couple whacks with a mallet should do the job.
    Renn-Spot - Cars & parts For Sale - http://renn-spot.blogspot.com/
    1970 911"S" - Black (originally silver)
    1974 911"S" - Silver
    1973 911"T" - Bahia Red - Now Sold
    10 sec 67 VW
    Early "S" Registry #439

  10. #20
    Senior Member eaton's Avatar
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    Nov 2009
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    509
    Probably obvious to you, but don't forget to disconnect the shift coupler (under cover plate in front/between rear seats).
    '66 912 with a 2.2
    '62 Lotus Seven S2
    '66 Lotus Elan
    '63 Karmann Ghia convertible
    '76 Alfa Spider

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