It doesn’t appear that Pirelli, in the last bulletin, makes any remarks about specific wheel design. Only forbids the use of tubes in “tubeless” tires. I guess it could be mentioned in a section not posted, though.
Jim
It doesn’t appear that Pirelli, in the last bulletin, makes any remarks about specific wheel design. Only forbids the use of tubes in “tubeless” tires. I guess it could be mentioned in a section not posted, though.
Jim
The Pirelli contacts are right there to get more specific.
If folks really care to get Pirelli to officially answer the specifics in the case of these older Fuchs wheels with their tubeless tyres etc they can contact them directly. Image is simply a generic link. Like any generic info on web it is general input and maybe no longer latest.
Anyone who has a genuine need to know and genuine interest in the technical opinion of a leading tyre company who are a current Porsche Partner might wish to do so. If I was considering a tyre for an old Fuchs wheel new tyre configuration that has any possibility of being unsupported technically by Pirelli or maybe inadvertantly the configuration presents potential issues known to the manufacturer, I'd be onto them for input. The existence of the Pirelli and Michelin older published information on the topic is enough to warrant at least some some curiousity even if that technical data is now outmoded. I might do it anyway -- even though I don't have need of this configuration.
This uncertainty and noise has been around a while Thought this forum wanted information and facts?
A written response from Pirelli in response to a set of questions might help and is obviously easier to post.
Steve
Last edited by 911MRP; 03-18-2020 at 02:37 PM.
Steve
I’m not trying to argue one way or the other. Well, maybe I am. The OP was asking for first hand info on his choice of wheel and tire combinations. There have been responses from people with hands on experience regarding his choices and I happen to be one of them. I do appreciate your comments and posting of technical info. Whether people want to make choices based on printed matter or comments from from the field is up to them. There is a lot to be learned from this thread and the more comments the better.
Jim
48 year user of tubeless tires on deep 6 wheels.
Keep it shiny side up Jim
thanks guys. Didn't want to start an argument here. FWIW: Koni here in NL doesn't recommend using yellow Koni shocks under an F-model. It requires a different top screw lid, which they make/sell themselves. Nevertheless, they "strongly advise" not to use yellow, just use the classic red range. Why? Don't know, and neither do they. Anyone knows this is possible, even their US distributor mentions (writes!) this is possible. A shock is different than a wheel, but (to me) it shows, companies not always know what's possible as they don't want to put any resources into it (especially not older / classic stuff) to back it up officially; Of course, as such, the manufacturer will not write a waiver that it's safe; Would be naive to expect that. Re. insurance companies (trying to) safeguard them from having to pay, well, don't get me started...
Which, by no means, is a reason to disregard the info. I'll dig further into it. But, the real-world experience is what I was actually after. ;-)
Now it's up to me what to do with the info.
911S 1973
Early 911S Registry #176
Don't think a regular 7J (ET23) will fit in the rear, would it? ..
911S 1973
Early 911S Registry #176
Tom,
This might answer some of your Koni sport shock questions.....
https://www.early911sregistry.org/fo...shock-question
Hope this helps,
Chuck
Chuck Miller
Creative Advisor/Message Board Moderator - Early 911S Registry #109
R Gruppe #88
TYP901 #62
'73S cpe #1099 - Matched # 2.7/9.5 RS spec rebuild
'67 Malibu 327 spt cpe - Period 350 Rebuild
’98 Chevy S-10 – Utility
’15 GTI – Commuter
hi Chuck!,
another can on worms there... you mentioned the Delrin retainer rings. The "US expert" on the Koni's (no names) said the rings weren't necessary and the shocks should be good, with the correct nut fitted.. (not starting another topic here, just replying on the reply.)
911S 1973
Early 911S Registry #176
Getting back to tubes etc, tube type tyres deflate very quickly as the nail etc cuts the tube and the air then escapes from around the stem area. This was the very reason tubeless was developed, the nail (or other sharp object) goes into the tyre and if it stays there (usually does) the tyre goes down slowly as the valve stem and bead are sealed.
The hump on the wheel near the bead is a back up to keep the tyre fitted to the rim when it is under-inflated (drivers don't tend to notice slow leaks).
Tyre manufactures advise against tubes in tubeless tyres as the inside of the tyre is not designed to have a tube rubbing against it.
Again, if a tube deflates, it will do so quickly, what then follows is the tyre dislodging from the rim and stability is reduced!
Using tubeless tyres on older rims usually requires a mod to the wheel to ensure the valve stem seats correctly but if this is sealed, you get added safety from a slower, more controlled deflation.
Any tyre well below normal inflation will eventually come off the rim!
Jeff Eelkema
69E (project)
S Reg #1431
Aust TYP 901 #132