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Thread: Spongy brake pedal after Changing brakes

  1. #1
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    Spongy brake pedal after Changing brakes

    Hi all
    On my 67 912; I have changed full brake system, old NOS(I Think) 19mm ATE dual circuit pump, New lines and hoses, Slightly used vented caliper in front and overhauled wide L in rear. And a new BMW ATE dual reservoar at same location as singel circuit res. I have aired the system several times but pedal still very spongy? I dont think it get any harder when pumped. Cars on stands so have not tried the brakes in real.

    Anyone know what could be wrong? Some air left some place? Something with the Main pump?
    '67 911S Sunroof, Polo Red(Project disguised as a G-model)
    '67 912 Sunroof, Light Ivory(Alive and kickin')
    '67 912 SWTarga, Signal Red(Project in the making)
    X: 67 911 Coupe + 67S Targa, 912, 924, 944, 928, 356

  2. #2
    Member #226 R Gruppe Life Member #147
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    Drive the car, carefully if needed, bed the brakes, might take 50 miles, then assess your brakes. Do a final bleed if needed.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by gled49 View Post
    Drive the car, carefully if needed, bed the brakes, might take 50 miles, then assess your brakes. Do a final bleed if needed.
    +1 on Gled’s recommendation. As you are driving you may want to keep lightly pumping the brakes to keep some pedal feel. Your brakes will magically heal themselves.
    Been there, done that many times.

    Jim
    Last edited by Jim Breazeale; 05-04-2020 at 05:32 AM.

  4. #4
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    Thanks Gled49 and Jim, I will do that!
    '67 911S Sunroof, Polo Red(Project disguised as a G-model)
    '67 912 Sunroof, Light Ivory(Alive and kickin')
    '67 912 SWTarga, Signal Red(Project in the making)
    X: 67 911 Coupe + 67S Targa, 912, 924, 944, 928, 356

  5. #5
    Serial old car rescuer Arne's Avatar
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    One additional thought - I had this issue on my '72T with some new generic no-name pads, but no amount of driving and bedding them in made them any better. I eventually replaced them with name-brand premium pads (Pagid) and the problem was instantly cured. So if your pads are not one of the good known brands and don't respond to good break-in and bedding, you may want to try a different set.
    Last edited by Arne; 05-04-2020 at 08:18 AM. Reason: typo correction
    - Arne
    Current - 2018 718 Cayman, Rhodium Silver, PDK

    Sold - 1972 911T coupe, Silver Metallic; 1984 911 Carrera coupe, Chiffon white; 1973 914 2.0, Saturn Yellow; 1984 944, Silver Metallic

  6. #6
    Senior Member raspritz's Avatar
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    A '67 912 has extremely problematic high points in the brake lines that trap air on a full brake system rebuild. It typically takes quite a few rebleeds and an extraordinary amount of imaginative cursing to get the brakes working properly again. Get the car off the jackstands and bounce the car up and down on the shocks, one corner at a time. Then jack up each corner very high one at a time and bleed. Remember proper order is RR>LR>RF>LF. Maybe do that process several times. Be prepared for a royal PIA.
    Last edited by raspritz; 05-04-2020 at 08:30 AM.
    Rich Spritz

    1959 BMC Huffaker Mk1 Formula Junior racecar
    1967 Porsche 911 racecar
    1969 Porsche 911T
    1970 Winkelmann WDF2 Formula Ford racecar
    1973 Merlyn Mk24 Formula Ford racecar
    2007 Porsche 997C4 cab (totaled by an idiot running a stop sign)
    2014 Porsche 991 TurboS cab
    2019 Cayman GTS (wife's)

  7. #7
    When you say pump I assume you mean master cylinder? In any case, when you went to dual circuit you had to modify the plunger rod that engages the master cylinder. There should only be 1mm clearance till it engages the piston inside the MS -- check that clearance.
    John Schiavone

    Connecticut

    356 Cab, 66 911, 914-6, 550-Beck, 981 Cayman, 54 MV Agusta Dustbid

  8. #8
    Senior Member ejboyd5's Avatar
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    Perhaps hysteresis is the culprit. Not to be overly technical, but it is possible that the memory of the rubber piston seals is pulling the pistons too far away from the discs when pedal pressure is not being applied. To correct: 1) Remove the new brake pads; 2) Substitute thin sheets of plywood or metal for the pads (thinner that the new brake pads); 3) Apply pedal pressure to fully extend the pistons; and 4) Manually retract (push back) the pistons JUST ENOUGH to allow you to slip the new pads into position. By doing this you will reset the memorized position of the rubber seals relative to the pistons so that they are no longer excessively retracted when the breaking system is at rest.

  9. #9
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    Thanks Rick, John and eboyd5, I will check all these things. Yes, I put on a correct rod (I think), will double check clearance.

    One more thing regarding brake switch. Is the small 1-pole switch on the dual pump for brake lights? The original one has 2-poles?
    '67 911S Sunroof, Polo Red(Project disguised as a G-model)
    '67 912 Sunroof, Light Ivory(Alive and kickin')
    '67 912 SWTarga, Signal Red(Project in the making)
    X: 67 911 Coupe + 67S Targa, 912, 924, 944, 928, 356

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ejboyd5 View Post
    Perhaps hysteresis is the culprit. Not to be overly technical, but it is possible that the memory of the rubber piston seals is pulling the pistons too far away from the discs when pedal pressure is not being applied. To correct: 1) Remove the new brake pads; 2) Substitute thin sheets of plywood or metal for the pads (thinner that the new brake pads); 3) Apply pedal pressure to fully extend the pistons; and 4) Manually retract (push back) the pistons JUST ENOUGH to allow you to slip the new pads into position. By doing this you will reset the memorized position of the rubber seals relative to the pistons so that they are no longer excessively retracted when the breaking system is at rest.
    Good advice, but just driving the car and using the brakes does exactly the same thing.

    Regards

    Jim

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