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Thread: Ride Height Question

  1. #1

    Ride Height Question

    I've refurbished the rear and front suspension on my 71' E. I set the ride height based on the formulas the shop manual gives to set the axle height. I have tripped checked my math and everything seems to be within spec but the height is way to high. I've see folks mentioned measuring the wheel well height. The fender height on mine is 27 1/2" in the front and 26 1/8" in the back. A friend told me I should be closer to 25 1/4" at the front and 25" in the back. If this is the case, how can I be so far off if the axle height is set based on the manual?

    Chris

  2. #2
    Serial old car rescuer Arne's Avatar
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    You are closer to correct than your friend thinks. That oft-quoted 25" fender spec is not the original height, but people have been lowering these cars for so long that lots of people think it is stock now. I've gone through this with 2 different cars, and with stock height tires true factory height at the fenders is more like 26½" front and 26" rear, or maybe 27" and 26½".

    Take a look at some of these pics from Car and Driver's '72 test. Note the ride height. This is what the cars looked like from the factory. Note that these cars all had 185/70VR15 tires, which have an overall diameter of 25.5". The last picture of the front of the T and S is telling. See how much gap is above the tire. The fender height there is easily 26.5", maybe 27" on the T.

    But there are too many variables in measuring at the fenders. If you want to be sure you are in factory spec, you need to measure torsion bar to spindle difference as the factory called for. That removes tires sizes and potential fender differences from the equation.

    For what it is worth, I've found that for normal driving, ride height about ½-¾" (12-20mm) lower than factory is a good compromise for looks vs. maintaining ride/handling balance. My car currently sits 26" in front and 25.5" in the rear at the fenders.

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  3. #3
    Thanks Arne for the pics and clarification. So I've seen references to the Euro ride height which appears to be lower. I didn't know it at the time but when my friend was referencing 25 1/4" front and 25" back, he was getting from Bruce Anderson's Performance Handbook. Do you know why the difference in US vs Euro? Was it to raise the bumper height to meet US requirements?

    Chris

  4. #4
    With the ROW 2.4 S cars there is a limit to lowering for road use. The plastic gas tanks. My Italian 73S which is as delivered has significantly less clearance than the standard tank. I can't imagine going any lower except for track only. My tank also has the factory extended front cover which isn't a skid plate but is about the lowest part when installed. Maybe five or six inches just eyeballing. I would never go lower. So there is one aspect of 'euro ride height'.
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  5. #5
    Serial old car rescuer Arne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris belyea View Post
    Thanks Arne for the pics and clarification. So I've seen references to the Euro ride height which appears to be lower. I didn't know it at the time but when my friend was referencing 25 1/4" front and 25" back, he was getting from Bruce Anderson's Performance Handbook. Do you know why the difference in US vs Euro? Was it to raise the bumper height to meet US requirements?
    So-called "euro ride height" was only applicable for '74-83 impact bumper cars. Both before ('65-73) and after ('84-on) all road versions had the same spec whether USA (North America, actually) or the rest of the world. The US height for those impact bumper cars was even higher to meet then-current bumper requirements.

    So "technically" all early 911's were already at "euro height", as were '84-89 models.

    Special models for racing did have different specs, of course.
    Last edited by Arne; 05-28-2020 at 11:35 AM.
    - Arne
    Current - 2018 718 Cayman, Rhodium Silver, PDK

    Sold - 1972 911T coupe, Silver Metallic; 1984 911 Carrera coupe, Chiffon white; 1973 914 2.0, Saturn Yellow; 1984 944, Silver Metallic

  6. #6
    Thanks again for explaining the differences.

    Chris

  7. #7
    Arne,

    A quick follow up question. I have adjusted the height and have it set to 25 3/4" front and 25 1/4" in the back. I haven't decided if I should raise it up a bit or not but the camber on the front is way out of wack. I've pushed the struts over as far as the go and I have about 2 degrees of negative camber. I've read that ride height has a lot to do with the camber. So I'm stuck with the negative camber or unless I raise the car? Someone told me to cut the struct plates.

    Chris

  8. #8
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    If you have to start cutting, then I would expect that you are wanting to race or do something extreme. What is your purpose for the car?
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  9. #9
    Street use only.

  10. #10
    BTW, my post above indicated that I would have to cut the structure. I meant cutting the strut plates not structural plates.

    Chris

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