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Thread: Surfing

  1. #1
    Senior Member frederik's Avatar
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    Surfing

    So who here surfs as well? We started talking about surfing in this thread: https://www.early911sregistry.org/fo...sto-Heater-Use

    But rather than hijacking the Webasto thread even further, we might continue here! Unfortunately I came late to the Porsche party and started surfing about 20 years ago, long before I ever sat behind the wheel of a Porsche. To be honest I rarely take my Targa when I go surfing -- the 996 is weatherproof, has better heating in winter (to stay on topic), safer/easier to lock and you can fit a larger board inside...

    Quote Originally Posted by bob joyce View Post
    did you make that section?
    Sorry, that's not me on that wave. This is one of the few pics of myself that I have:

    IMG_6466.jpg

    Interested to hear any war stories (preferably from the 60s-70s) that any of you might have to share...
    1970 2.2S Elfenbeinweiss
    1972 2.4T Targa Aubergine (MFI) [For sale]
    2002 996 TT Midnight Blue
    Member #3833

  2. #2
    Senior Member 911L Guy's Avatar
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    Surfing - Yes - but we do it Midwest-style! Being landlocked out here In Chicago, we have to settle for Wake Surfing, which is like a Mini Me version of ocean surfing that we do in inland lakes. Essentially, you use your boat to set up a wave with plenty of push and a decent-sized pocket so you can literally surf all day.

    Here are a few shots from last week up at the Lake (apologizes for the sideways post of the second pic - problems with the upload!). It’s a LOT less work than ocean surfing, but it’s a great way to spend an afternoon on the water with friends in between water skiing sessions

    5167E025-5F96-4719-AD96-E9A9217AA63C.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    ________________________________
    Early 911S Reg #3096
    "Chester" - 1968 911 L, Fully Restored, Numbers Matching, Tangerine Orange on the original 5 1/2 x 15 Fuchs wheels
    "The Beast" - 2010 911 4S Cab, Triple Black, 6 Speed MT, SSK, PSE with Fabspeed Sport Headers and 200-Cell Cats
    "The Truck" - 2019 Cayenne Turbo, Jet Black, Sport Chrono, PSE, Rear Axle Steering & PSCB Brakes (for haulin' stuff... fast)
    ”Blue” - 2023 911 Turbo S Cab, Gentian Blue over Deviated Black Leather with PSE & PCCB’s

  3. #3
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    What's the water temp in Holland? I started in Santa Cruz then moved to San Diego for warmer water and more jobs. Now I'm back near the cold water in Oregon but uncrowded surf. Costa Rica and still I think Santa Cruz has the best surf I've ever been in. Used to go to Cabo a lot and surf Zippers. That's a great right.
    72S, 72T now ST

  4. #4
    Senior Member frederik's Avatar
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    Water temp here ranges from 40 F in winter to 72 in summer. So full 6/4 hooded wetsuit with gloves and boots in winter, to a 3/2 in summer. The waves are not great but I’m grateful for anything. It’s much better in France, Spain and Portugal but with three small kids, I don’t often get the chance to do surf trips (or road trips) unfortunately.

    Oregon has good surf right? And uncrowded is worth a LOT. I hear Gerry Lopez moved to Oregon and spends his winters snowboarding so it sounds like a good place to live. I visited Santa Cruz once and had some fun waves a little further down the coast — didn’t go to the main spots because I didn’t feel like competing with the pros. Zippers, Costa Rica, San Diego are all awesome, best not to think too much about it for me.

    We did live in Cape Town for a year about five years ago and that was excellent for surfing, one of the best years of my life. Great driving roads too.

    Quote Originally Posted by 911L Guy View Post
    Surfing - Yes - but we do it Midwest-style!
    That looks like fun too!
    1970 2.2S Elfenbeinweiss
    1972 2.4T Targa Aubergine (MFI) [For sale]
    2002 996 TT Midnight Blue
    Member #3833

  5. #5
    Senior Member Chris Pomares's Avatar
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    I grew up in South Bay. Born in 52 two blocks from the Marine Street lifeguard station. I had a green canvas and rubber yellow ended hard raft to ride the waves. At seven we moved to Hermosa Beach. Still had my raft. Our next door neighbor was an old guy around 28. He had a newer light blue and red Speedster. He would take me to Vasek Polak to check out the cars. That was my introduction to Porsche's. Around 1960 we moved to Malaga Cove Palos Verdes. There were no houses between our house and the beach and Haggerty's. For most of the mid to late 60's and early 70's I surfed RAT Beach, Haggerty's, and the Cove. It took word of mouth to let folks know when a swell arrived. You could look at the LA Times weather and tide charts but they could only guess to a swells arrival. Therefore the 10 or so kids in Malaga Cove got many days at Hagg's and the Cove to ourselves. Heaven! My one year of bigger surf was the winter of 69/70 at Lunada Bay. There was no local-ism there in those days. A lot of good South Bay guys would show up and we welcomed them as only a few of us would go out . If you lost your board in those pre leach days your board was toast as the shoreline was all big rocks. What a year that was! Traveling down to Sunset Cliffs or up tp Rincon was a snich back then. I still have a long board in Carpinteria as my wife's family are from there. The PO box is #5. My brother in law lives there now. By 1971 ish I moved to Aspen in my 67 split window bus. I remember paying 14.9 cents during a gas war to fill up my 10 gallon tank as I left for Aspen. Big bucks. A season pass my first year was $125. I skied more days than 125. Then I moved to Sun Valley the last half of the 70's. I taught skiing in both places. And worked at Scott USA in Sun Valley. I've been blessed for sure. Here is a picture in Aspen and yes it was that steep off the 1A chair. My house in Sun Valley across from the Warms Spring chair lift. Sold it for $300,000 and now it's worth $1.5. And my all time favorite skier, Stenmark at a World Cup ski race Aspen.
    My first Porsche. A 59A Super with Rudge wheels. I used to shoot a ton of Super 8 and Kodachrome slides of surfing and skiing and have managed to misplace the box. Oh well. I'm still on planet earth, and life is good.
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    Last edited by Chris Pomares; 06-14-2020 at 08:00 AM.
    1959 Auratium Green 356A Super w/ Rudge wheels
    1970 Irish Green 914-6 w/2.2S
    Current -1967 Bahama Yellow 912 POLO 2cam4 #1
    www.reSeeWorks.com
    Personalized Vintage Porsche's and parts
    I couldn't find the sports car of my dreams, so I built it myself-Ferdinand Porsche

  6. #6
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    Yes Chris... Surfing in the 60's and 70's was nirvanas... so many evenings surfing perfect waves at the hook with doug haut and one or two others because it was fogy earlier or the tide was too high and the "crowd" did not understand the changing conditions... What a shame though to see the surfing associations turn the surfing experience into a circus. I saw friends and others surfing attitude turn from pleasure to an unsustainable quest for some kind of recognition... it put guys in the water who felt they had and deserved certain waves so they could get the experience and recognition to compete...

  7. #7
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    I don't remember the date.... It was a Friday, before the big weekend Steamer Lane world championship? David Nuuhiwa won the contest with incredible backside cutbacks off the lip....

    a camera bug came down to Santa Cruz to take some action shots... he asked me to be his subject and we decided to shoot at CoweIMG_20200614_0012.jpgls. I had no idea of who was in the water, only about 5 or6 guys...
    So... i took off on a wave that looked like it was going to close out in front of me... I roller coastered it (not common at all those days) and made it to the green water. AS i was doing the maneuver , some one was trying to drop in. I jammed to the top and gently grabed the nose of his board and pushed him out.... Later that same surfer lost his board and while i was paddling out i put it on my toe and brought it to him... In a sun rays fashion, the board had David Nuuehiwa on the deck... I looked at him as i delivered it to him and he had that big signature smile. Later, i lost my board and David put it on his toe and delivered it to me.... When i got out of the water the photographer was raving about what an incredible session it was with Corky Carrol , Johnny Fain and Mart Martinson out. He did not know.., i guess... that David was even out.... This was the era of board transition... Corkey was on something like 8'6" and i was riding a board that i had stripped the 9"6" glass and shaped a 7'6"...
    i cant remember exactly when .... but this 9/12 and 9/11 were the cars i had then..... I drew inspiration for my board design line transitions from the Porsche body lines....IMG_20200614_0003.pdfIMG_20200614_0003.pdfIMG_20200614_0006.pdfIMG_20200614_0003.pdfIMG_20200614_0006.pdfIMG_20200614_0012.jpg
    Last edited by bob joyce; 06-14-2020 at 12:01 PM. Reason: picture

  8. #8
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    here are the other picturesIMG_20200614_0006.pdf

  9. #9
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    other pictureIMG_20200614_0003.pdf


    my board philosophy was that a long board was an olds 442 and a short board was a 9/11S.....
    Last edited by bob joyce; 06-14-2020 at 08:27 PM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    my current roadster taken in 1999 before interior was installed ...picture taken by my mail man as i drove down the street...IMG_20200614_0010.jpg
    Last edited by bob joyce; 06-14-2020 at 12:49 PM. Reason: wrd

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