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Thread: Surfing

  1. #21
    Senior Member Chris Pomares's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob joyce View Post
    i do not personally know him, but he was in the Haut contest above. If my memory is correct he did not finish his example in time allotted ?. At that time, what i had heard was that he was a top shaper.... i have no knowledge of him that is current...
    Thanks Bob
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  2. #22
    Swedewerks Survivor Cars SD Swede's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frederik View Post
    Awesome pictures and stories everyone!



    Is that in Sweden??
    No, Oregon coast. It can be a lonely venture here but the rewards are great if you are in tune.

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  3. #23
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    an incredibly beautiful part of our planet....

  4. #24
    I dated a SF surfer whose home territory was ocean beach. Pretty hard core stuff. Some of her friends were serious big wave surfers so watching then practice at Mavericks was pretty crazy. I wish I could surf but I wouldn’t do that one! What a rush it must be though. I can see why everyone gets addicted. Even as a non surfer I loved the book Barbarian Days. Highly highly recommended to surfer and non surfer alike.

  5. #25
    Senior Member frederik's Avatar
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    I was just going to mention Barbarian Days, an awesome book. Especially the section on Ocean Beach.

    Great pic of Oregon above... I think it really is worth it to go to more remote places like these. All the well-known places are so crowded that it's no fun anymore. Even here in Holland the most popular spots get 100+ people on good days on the weekend. On the other hand, I did get a chance to surf at Malibu last October and the atmosphere was good and I got a couple of nice ones. I was even in a rented Boxster, and had a very nice drive back to town via Mulholland Highway.
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  6. #26
    Senior Member 62S-R-S's Avatar
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  7. #27
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    i was wondering...... back around 2010, because i was retired and had all the tools and know how. i thought i would make my own board. so, i found an ad on Craig's list for surf board blanks in Pacifica .... i drew up my design and brought a long stick and a torpedo level to check rocker thru the sellers inventory for a blank that would "fit" my board design... like a kid in a candy store i was pulling blanks and measuring with my rocker stick.... The owner of the shop had a huge smile on his face and said " hey, i saw your clip board and all of your calculations, come back here with me" he walked me back to the back of the shop and there was a glass walled of shaping bay with a machine in the middle of it. With a huge smile on his face, he said "see that" and there were a few shaped blanks leaning up against the glass wall. They had a wide wale corduroy look to the surface of the shaped boards.... He said, "i see what you have done on paper and you are ready for programming this into a file and with this machine (an APS 3000) i can cut it for you for $30.00.... I was on cloud nine... he said to go home and down load board cad and aku shaper, both free share ware at the time. He said to email him the file and the program would tell him wich blank would fit my design inside and he would cut it for $30.00... This was ten years ago and although the board designers like Haut and others was using, him Matt Ambrose.

  8. #28
    Senior Member Chris Pomares's Avatar
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    In the late 60 and early 70's I would occasionally stop by Mitch's ( I think that was the name of his place) in Encinitas while I was in the area to surf. He sold second blanks for $10, resin for $4.25 a gallon, and fiberglass cloth for 75 cents a yard. If I shaped the board myself (I did 5 or 6 times) I could make a board for under $25.00. A new board from Rick's, Bing, or Jacobs was like $125.00. When your working for less than $2.00 an hour, $100.00 was a lot of money still in your pocket. It could pay for a lot of surf trips when gas was under 25 cents a gallon.
    1959 Auratium Green 356A Super w/ Rudge wheels
    1970 Irish Green 914-6 w/2.2S
    Current -1967 Bahama Yellow 912 POLO 2cam4 #1
    www.reSeeWorks.com
    Personalized Vintage Porsche's and parts
    I couldn't find the sports car of my dreams, so I built it myself-Ferdinand Porsche

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