Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: substitute for rev limit rotor, Bosch # 1234 332

  1. #1

    substitute for rev limit rotor, Bosch # 1234 332

    guys,
    Is there a solid rotor substitute for the 7300 rpm rev limit rotor, Bosch # 1234 332. If so, could i ask what the Bosch or Porsche Part number might be?

    The rev limit retainer spring in my 901.602.929.00 rotor let loose the other day, stranding me by the roadside. Rotor function would have worked fine if the rev limiter function had not broken. Seems to me if I can restrain myself, I do not need the rev limiter and a solid rotor would work fine.

    Any and all help/thoughts appreciated.

    The Capitalist Roader, member # 322

    73 S with sporto
    69 912 without sporto

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by caproader View Post
    Rotor function would have worked fine if the rev limiter function had not broken.
    Seems to me if I can restrain myself, I do not need the rev limiter and a solid rotor would work fine.
    Why not just block, disable or remove the rev limit function?

    Jon B.
    Vista, CA

  3. #3
    Moderator Chuck Miller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Reseda, CA.
    Posts
    12,444
    I keep an extra in the car.......
    Chuck Miller
    Creative Advisor/Message Board Moderator - Early 911S Registry #109
    R Gruppe #88

    TYP901 #62
    '73S cpe #1099 - Matched # 2.7/9.5 RS spec rebuild
    '67 Malibu 327 spt cpe - Period 350 Rebuild

    ’98 Chevy S-10 – Utility
    ’15 GTI – Commuter

  4. #4
    Guys,
    Thanks for the responses. My frugal self says that I am reluctant to spend extra for something that I will either disable or spend extra so that I have a spare when the rev limiter strands me along side the road. Especially if a solid rotor would never strand me.

    So my research (and an inventory of used parts in my garage) lead me to a solid rotor, Bosch part number 1 234 233 215 that my Bosch cross reference book says will work on either a Benz 280 SL (6 cylinder) or a VW Karman Ghia (4 cylinder).

    Is it possible that the same solid rotor will work on both a 4 cylinder and/or a 6 cylinder motor?

    Thanks for the thoughts and help

    John

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    2,756
    Quote Originally Posted by caproader View Post
    guys,
    ...... Seems to me if I can restrain myself, I do not need the rev limiter and a solid rotor would work fine.

    Any and all help/thoughts appreciated.

    The Capitalist Roader, member # 322

    73 S with sporto
    69 912 without sporto
    How would your frugal self feel if you didn’t restrain yourself after somehow eliminating factory / Bosch rev limiting mechanism ? Are there scenarios without rev limiter that might have “costs” to weigh into the economic balance of choosing to eliminate vs carry a fairly inexpensive spare. A spare that you might well use at some point in routine
    maintenance if car is a keeper, so hardly a big spares inventory investment.
    Last edited by 911MRP; 07-02-2020 at 08:32 AM.

  6. #6
    Serial old car rescuer Arne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Eugene, OR
    Posts
    1,959
    Yes, the rotor doesn't care whether it transmits 4 or 6 or however many sparks per revolution. If the dimensions are all correct, it will work.

    But I'd only use such as a spare or for troubleshooting, not for normal use. These engines are far too eager to rev well past the safe zone for me to be comfortable with no limiter at all.

    I have recently disabled the limiter on my rotor to verify that it was not working correctly. In my case, it appeared that the limiter was cutting off the spark far too early (as low as 4k when revved quickly) and would occasionally stick in the limited spot until the engine died. Once dead, I could restart normally and all was fine until I got exuberant once again. Weak spring, I guess.

    Disabling it has shown that it is probably bad. I've had no glitches since. But I will replace it with the correct limiting rotor, as the consequences of a serious over-rev are quite distressing. I may keep the disabled one in the tool roll for "just in case".
    Last edited by Arne; 07-02-2020 at 11:34 AM.
    - Arne
    Current - 2018 718 Cayman, Rhodium Silver, PDK

    Sold - 1972 911T coupe, Silver Metallic; 1984 911 Carrera coupe, Chiffon white; 1973 914 2.0, Saturn Yellow; 1984 944, Silver Metallic

  7. #7
    '72 911T 3,0 liter MFI Albert Blue street/DE toy Jeff Higgins's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Lynnwood, WA
    Posts
    194
    I don't have a part number handy, but back when I still ran a distributor (I now use an Electromotive crank fired setup), I just used a rotor from an old air cooled Beetle. There is a "tall" version and a "short" version - you need the "tall". Works like a champ. I was, however, also running an MSD 6AL ignition box - the "AL" stands for "adjustable limit", wherein the rev limit was set with a replaceable "chip" stuck into one side of the box.
    "God invented whisky so the Irish wouldn't rule the world."

  8. #8
    I only use solid rotors. Then again I like solid chain tensioners. Most damaged 911 motors Ive seen were from selecting the wrong gear, a rev limiter is useless then.
    Last edited by 66S; 07-14-2020 at 04:50 PM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Garden State
    Posts
    312
    Many years ago I put a solid rotor in my BMW Bavaria. It came in handy when speed was the only concern...
    That straight six with 10-1 pistons would rev to Heaven- safely.

    I have one but I wouldn't put one in a gold-plate 911 motor.

    It IS frustrating the many different permutations of the centrifugal rotors.

    Different rpm specifications and different Bosch distributers make for a lot of different rotors.
    Many of today's parts suppliers don't really care about what they sell.
    Added to that the corner-cutting by Bosch and it can be a mess.

    I've bought several rotors trying to get one to fit correctly in a friends 1972 911T
    'Same part numbers printed on box and the rotors fitted taller and shorter in the distributer than the original!
    A taller one became a real mess. The shortie lasted only a few months-

    Once you get the correct one buy another.

    For part time cars a rotor will last a really long time.
    There is no reason not to lightly file the tip of an old one to clean it up. Lightly being the watchword. Don't try to get it smooth again. Just remove a little brass to expose new conductor. It'll go another 12,000 miles.

    If the car isn't a show winner check out the 123 distributer. It is affordable, has custom spark advance and has different settable rev limiting.

    It looks similar to stock Bosch and eliminates a lot of 50 year-old tech that is NLA.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Message Board Disclaimer and Terms of Use
This is a public forum. Messages posted here can be viewed by the public. The Early 911S Registry is not responsible for messages posted in its online forums, and any message will express the views of the author and not the Early 911S Registry. Use of online forums shall constitute the agreement of the user not to post anything of religious or political content, false and defamatory, inaccurate, abusive, vulgar, hateful, harassing, obscene, profane, sexually oriented, threatening, invasive of a person's privacy, or otherwise to violate the law and the further agreement of the user to be solely responsible for and hold the Early 911S Registry harmless in the event of any claim based on their message. Any viewer who finds a message objectionable should contact us immediately by email. The Early 911S Registry has the ability to remove objectionable messages and we will make every effort to do so, within a reasonable time frame, if we determine that removal is necessary.