Clutch adjustment

[chris belyea]

Hi all,

When I purchased my '70 911E 7 years ago, I second gear would always grind when going from first to second unless I went VERY slow. I had to pull the engine recently so So I decided to replace the syncros. There was some definite wear. But now that I have it back together, I'm still getting grinding second gear and sometime reverse. Going through the manual, I see that it states that there should be 20-25 mm free play (I had 22mm) and the clutch fork should move approx. 15m (I had 12mm). I adjusted the stop behind the pedal all the way up and could only get 13mm. So in order to get to 15 mm, I had to take out most of the free pedal play (I may have about 2-2 mm of play). I did this at the transmission, I didn't go into the tunnel and make any adjustments. Quite honestly, unless I'm missing something, I didn't see the difference in where I adjusted the length of the cable. At the transmission was just easier.

So is there a problem if I don't have any free pedal? Also the manual mentions the cable relation to the "guide clamp". My transmission is missing this piece and my cable loops way up in the air. If I pull the cable down, I do see the fork move a little. I'm guessing that this may be some of my problem. So I'm I okay as long as I have a little free pedal play and the correct fork travel distance?

Thanks

Chris

[Scott A]

There is also adjustment at the shift coupler. In and out won't matter so much, but you can try different locations while "rotating" on the splines.
This area can lead to nicking second or reverse.

I am guessing you have a 5 speed.

Also. Is your bowden tube new?
Thats a significant piece.

The bowden tube needs to go sliding up the metal "u" bracket.
Which I don't see on your car.
This u is a two purpose guide. It keeps the Bowden only going up and down.
And it will help you see if the Bowden tube is too low or too high.

And it needs to go thru the hole on the tranny cover.
Which, If yours broke off, you can make a new one.
Personally, I think it needs to be a full circle.

Everything else you describe sounds like you are getting the idea..

[Jon B]

Also the manual mentions the cable relation to the "guide clamp". My transmission is missing this piece and my cable loops way up in the air... I'm guessing that this may be some of my problem...

Chris, you need that guide bracket for the clutch cable to operate to full effect.



Jon B.
Vista, CA

[chris belyea]

Scott,

What is a Bowden tube? Yes it’s a 5speed.

Chris

[Scott A]

The Bowden tube is the thick black shieth.
Or rubbery black tube.
Or cable housing. I think it's like 2 feet long.
It's the long black plastic/rubber (with metal inside) that pushes the clutch fork.

[Scott A]

By the way. In the end... You may find your clutch is already disengaging completely.... And it will be how good the condition of your shift coupler is. And you're adjustment with that part.
And how good your shift lever is.... And those bushings... And particularity the reverse spring area.

[Richy]

Do you have a sport pressure plate ? Sometimes they are too much for the '70 , '71 push style clutch cable system .

[chris belyea]

Do you have a sport pressure plate ? Sometimes they are too much for the '70 , '71 push style clutch cable system .

That, I don’t know

[gled49]

You said you replaced the synchros, what about the shift sleeves?

[chris belyea]

No I didn’t.