3 fuse holder in engine bay

[Simonjjb]

What about this one? On US Amazon....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Rareelectrical NEW 12V VOLTAGE REGULATOR COMPATIBLE WITH DUCELLIER 5190004 8358 8367 73788 AYB216 AYB217 AYB219
REPLACES:
DUCELLIER 519004 8358 8367 8373 8380
PARIS RHONE 73788 76807 77569 77616 79560 79585 79760 79905 97162 97628 AYB2111 AYB2120 AYB214 AYB216 AYB217 AYB219 YL412
PORSCHE 911-603-901-00
SEV 72711002
VALEO 505-046
VOLVO 6877982

NOTE: BE SURE TO MATCH YOUR APPLICATION AND ORIGINAL NUMBERS BEFORE ORDERING

ORIGINAL OE DESIGN NO MODIFICATIONS NECESSARY

REGULATOR
12 VOLT, B-CIRCUIT, 15.0 VOLT SET POINT

[NorthernThrux]

Yup, that will work.

[NorthernThrux]

Went for a drive to clear my head this afternoon. Here are the pics people wanted.

Whole thing buttoned up.


Cover off the console. Note that I haven't applied my magic gold coloured paint mixture to the black tab on the VR to make it look metal like the OEM electro-mechanical one as I did with my first attempt that I documented in my build thread. That's a project for the winter at this point. The mounting tabs on the VR are quite brittle, you can see I cracked even the top one and had to epoxy it. I have no idea how old this VR is but given that they are about C$10 here in Canada, I'll buy a new one and make that one pretty.


Cover off the VR. One thing to note is that the spacing between the modern VR mounting points and the original is a bit different, so you can't get screws in both top and bottom holes. I actually cut the bottom mounting tab that has the ground lead, shortened it 4 mm and epoxy it back so I can screw in both mounting points and have a good ground of the VR to the console via the metal mounting screw. I also put a layer of rubber gasket behind the VR as an insulator to keep the DF and D+ lines from ever contacting the console metal.

[NorthernThrux]

BTW, a trick for those working on making their wires pretty, and as a follow up to the earlier post.

If you want to make your wires clean and ready for soldering, prepare two solutions as follows. The first will be vinegar (any kind) with as much table salt dissolved in it as you can. This will be about a tablespoon of slat in a regular coffee cup filled with vinegar. The second solution will be a couple of tablespoons of baking soda in a similar size cup mixed with water (make it cloudy). Dip the wire in the vinegar solution for a couple of minutes or so and then dip and swish in the baking soda for 20 seconds. You will have clean copper wire strands to solder!

EDIT: That second solution is important!! It neutralizes the acid from the first step. If you don’t do that, your wires will continue to corrode and your solder joint will fail eventually. I actually do a swish in isopropyl alcohol as a third step, to get the wire strands nice and clear.

[ESully]

You make some good points in this thread. Many do not realize that the circuit diagrams are not meant to accurately represent the actual car wiring.
The 3 fuse block in the engine compartment is installed with fuse number 3 at the top and fuse 1 at the bottom. The diagram shows battery power coming in on the left side of the fuse panel in the trunk, while the actual wiring is a mirror image with the battery power on the right. If replacing the 3 fuse panel, it is important to get the correct one, as the connecting straps on the back vary from different years.
This can be confusing to many trying to work on the electrical in their own car. Another point concerning 1973 cars is the changes made in January for the 911T CIS cars. There were a few changes due to the CIS, elimination of the TTS and the addition of the WUR and cold start injector. My 3 fuse panel has an additional wire to the fuse panel.
There are different wiring diagrams for 1973 MFI cars and CIS.
I noticed you did not install the noise suppression capacitors when you switched to the electronic voltage regulator. I take it that you found them unnecessary with the new type regulator.

[NorthernThrux]

Never had those capacitors because (probably) my car was not delivered with a radio.

There are also different wiring diagrams for MFI depending on whether you have a Bosch or Marchal alternator. The factory manual wiring diagram has the Bosch alternator wiring. You have to go to the supplements to see the figure I posted with the two different alternators.