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Thread: converting a '70 - '71 type clutch ?

  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    converting a '70 - '71 type clutch ?

    I've never seen one in the flesh so I'm flying blind. a buddy is trying to get his '71 back on the road and is stumped. I'm no help. he's considering throwing in the towel
    and going w/ the earlier setup. can it be done ? how complicated ? I couldn't find anything searching here.
    TIA
    84102 purchased in '85 FINALLY started driving it (2/2015)
    '73 911T original paint sunroof coupe waiting in the wings
    3 gauge Holbert 912... now for something completely different
    1940 Mercury town sedan

  2. #2
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    '70 - '71 clutches work great ! Get the upgraded pivot bolt however . To answer your question I think it can be done , some drilling and tapping the case for a different style release fork .
    It would be a lot easier using the '70 - '71 .

  3. #3
    Senior Member Scott A's Avatar
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    I have a 71, and just renewed the 71 parts.
    It is easy to push the clutch in. And I replaced most parts with new.
    I did have to repair the tab/hole on the tranny plate.

    I am not an agressive driver. But the original 71 clutch has worked very well for me.

    The factory manual has a good diagram, explaining the concept.
    Without that image. It is hard to understand.

    The hardest part was reaching inside and moving the throwing bearing...to slide off the bell housing.
    Last edited by Scott A; 11-12-2020 at 08:10 PM.

    Current long term ownership: 63 Cab, 71 911, 74 914

  4. #4
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    The pivot bolt for the clutch fork has to be relocated about 12mm ( a wild assed guess, it may be only 10 or 11mm, Jon Bunin could tell you exactly) from it's original position. It is a "captive nut and the new position will just be a threaded hole in the case. Then you need to purchase a whole new clutch package and a flywheel from a 69 911 and a clutch fork. Don't do that. Just get it figured out. Your buddy is about to shoot himself in the foot.

    Regards

    Jim

  5. #5
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    +1 on Jims spot on comment!

    I had to change T/O bearing 2 years ago, running sportier clutch, lightened flywheel and the OEM type plastic coupler.. Which might be pushing it.

    Just spotted Jimmys post on a new, really good looking coupler in aluminium coated for less friction.
    Porsche 935 DP1 Zirkelbach
    930/10
    Resale red

    Porsche 911, 1971
    2.5L on Webers
    Silvermetallic

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by typ901 View Post
    ...a buddy is trying to get his '71 back on the road and is stumped. I'm no help. he's considering throwing in the towel
    and going w/ the earlier setup. can it be done ?
    Jerry, I agree with Jim. Your buddy should "just get it figured out" and not backdate the clutch.
    What's the issue with using the correct clutch for his 71?

    Jon B.
    Vista, CA

  7. #7
    Agreed with all and Jim, don’t shoot yourself in the foot. I have a 71’ and somewhat close to you. At first glance the mechanism is bazar. But once you take a step back it is quite logical. Important that Bowden Tube and cable are in good condition and loop is on trans. A little tricky if mating with engine as fork needs to first align with flats on TOB then reside behind. I use the two inspection holes on upper part of trans to align with my fingers.

  8. #8
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    thanks guys. I sent my buddy a soft copy of the factory parts manual. I also burned a cutaway drawing of the set up as posted in another thread. I'm gonna have a look tomorrow.
    84102 purchased in '85 FINALLY started driving it (2/2015)
    '73 911T original paint sunroof coupe waiting in the wings
    3 gauge Holbert 912... now for something completely different
    1940 Mercury town sedan

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