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Thread: How to fix a hand throttle!

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Long Island, NY

    How to fix a hand throttle!

    As you can see in my other post, I had to learn about a little hitch, but now that it is solved, I'd like to share / document what I did to fix the hand throttle.

    Start by removing the seats - I know, a pain...but it is a bigger pain trying to work around them.

    Once removed, you need to vacuum anyway. Right?

    Then, undo the three 13mm bolts holding the ebrake assembly in place and then take a couple of spanners and remove the 13mm nuts holding the ebrake assembly shaft in place:

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    One those are out of the way, you can lift the assembly up high enough to get a needle nose plier (from the driver side) in there to remove the c-clip and push the pin out towards the passenger side.

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    Carefully remove each of the washers and the hand throttle lever. The heater lever will remain in place. Here is a diagram for reference:

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    Then remove the shaft and polish it up on the wire wheel bench grinder:

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    It should clean up nicely:

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    My hardware was pretty chewed up, so some new cad will go in:

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    Usually the (hard rubber) hand throttle arm that pushes on the throttle cable is dried out and broken or gone completely. Mine was gone along with the washer and c-clip (I ordered two of each in the event one finds it way into a dark crack!). Here are the parts and their associated numbers:

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    And back:

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    I also swear by this stuff because it is food grade, dielectric and will not eat at rubber and plastics. Perfect for ensuring not only the shaft we cleaned up will remain rust free and pivot nicely, but also our new arm.

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    Next is the "barrel" for a lack of a better term, this is what the throttle arm pushes against, thus depressing the throttle. Mine was in the wrong spot, and the user manual states that you can adjust through the little window. Right.

    This entire process (if you are not already pissed from needing needle fingers to do this) is a bit of a pain.

    Anyway - there is a small flat head set screw that you'll need to back out a little bit:

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  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Long Island, NY
    Here is the "barrel" that you need to remove and inspect.

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    Next is the ebrake connections - which if you are not careful you can push them back out of their tubes under the car. I learned this the hard way - and you will too, if you go to reinstall the ebrake handle assembly, the ebrake cables will be VERY tight.

    look under the car at these connections:

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    Here, you can see the ebrake cables pushed back, they should be forward so it aligns with the handle:

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    Now, install the hand throttle lever back onto its post, slide the new rubberized arm over the lower pin, and secure with washer first, then c-clip:

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    Now, setting the assembly in place, it should (with ease) line up with the 13mm bolt holes:

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    Adjust the barrel and secure the set screw - you can see the new rubberized arm will be just behind the barrel:

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    Re-install the 13mm bolts holding the assembly down.

    Then, actuate the FOOT throttle with your hand, and use the new hand throttle for the first time! Yes! It works.

    Then, button it all up!

    (I have a hard time fitting the rubber boot under the carpet - it won't fit, so I have it on top.

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    Reinstall the boot, seats....and happy hand throttling. NICE as the weather cools off!
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  3. #3
    Member #226 R Gruppe Life Member #147
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Portland, Oregon
    The clevis pin in last picture is not fully installed, it should be flush with the top of the yoke.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Long Island, NY
    Excellent catch, I was able to get it to fully seat.

    Thank you!!
    Last edited by dmaddox; 11-14-2020 at 03:31 PM.

  5. #5
    Nice instructions, but i hate to say that you need to go back in and replace the missing throttle rod plastic bushes
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Long Island, NY
    Quote Originally Posted by edmayo View Post
    Nice instructions, but i hate to say that you need to go back in and replace the missing throttle rod plastic bushes
    I’ve been in and out of there a few times now, and being new to Porsche (but not mechanics) I’m learning!!

    This "how to" is for me, mostly, ha!

    Thank you Ed. I did some research, and I think the bushes are part number 901 423 227 00. They are part number 13 in this diagram:

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    And can be purchased for just shy of 15 dollars on the bird:

    Thank you for the continued support, to all of you, as I learn my way through this car.

    All the best!
    Last edited by dmaddox; 11-16-2020 at 03:21 AM.

  7. #7
    Thanks for the procedure with photos! You're not the only one learning.

    I'm sure my throttle bushing in there is shot, as the rear one was. So this procedure is timely and will help me check my other components while in there.
    Dave Reu
    Member #3949
    1973 Silver Metallic 911S
    2016 Carrera White MacanS
    2002 Lapis Blue BoxsterS (Gone but not forgotten)

  8. #8
    Senior Member michaelaiellosr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    New York/Florida
    Thanks again to Ed Mayo for the CD he made available during my resto. Hand throttle better than new.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Long Island, NY
    I forgot to post a follow up on the concerns presented by the pros! Which, by the way, thank you for pointing these details out, it has paid off!

    First, a visit to gold coast Porsche on Long Island, who had the parts for me (and price matched Pelican)
    I show two here, but they are sold individually:

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    A selection of sub-par and horribly ineffective tools for the job, aside from the Snap-On mini 3/8" drive:

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    The parts book calls for three of them, but I only saw a house for two, one under the shift linkage cover:

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    And the other as previously prescribed. Yes, my car is grimey and very "driver" - so I apologize for the years of grime, paint, carpet glue, dog hair, french fries, and whatever else....

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    Last, I actually had to wrestle with this e-brake clevis, the pin would NOT sit down in there flush. I had to take it off and bend that pin so that it set in straight. After that, I was able to get it to sit correctly:

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    Thanks again for the tips and help in fixing this - The hand throttle now works nicely, and I will also add that the "slop" in the accelerator is gone, and is a much smoother feel.

    Happy Holidays,


  10. #10
    Senior Member TurkisTii's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Chicago, IL
    Quote Originally Posted by dmaddox View Post
    Thanks again for the tips and help in fixing this - The hand throttle now works nicely, and I will also add that the "slop" in the accelerator is gone, and is a much smoother feel.
    Great news! Thanks for sharing so many photos. I'll always search on this forum before tackling a new job or one that I've done before to learn from recent experience.
    Early 911S Registry #3811
    '70 911S Coupe Tangerine
    Instagram @turkis.tii

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