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Thread: 2.0 Motor Rebuild - What would you do?

  1. #11
    Senior Member Jon1966's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alaskan911 View Post
    So, the more horsepower the better, within reason for a mostly stock 66 911. The 2.7s heads, 90mm pistons, and stock crank was suggested to me with the expectation of somewhere around 180 horsepower. I was also told that twin plugging wasn't necessary.

    I just know there is a wealth of knowledge here, of which I have little, so I thought I'd see what the brain trust here thought. I do appreciate everyone's replies and suggestions, it has definitely given me some food for thought.

    Josh
    I have a 2.0l ali case, 2.2 ported heads, S cams, 10.5:1 pistons, weber 40 IDS and it goes like stink and in a SWB I am not sure I would want much more than the 180bhp it puts out....sounds good too (has SSIs and a standard Dansk muffler)

    https://youtu.be/5fLKfEIJpB4
    1966 911

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Jon1966 View Post
    I have a 2.0l ali case, 2.2 ported heads, S cams, 10.5:1 pistons, weber 40 IDS and it goes like stink and in a SWB I am not sure I would want much more than the 180bhp it puts out....sounds good too (has SSIs and a standard Dansk muffler)

    https://youtu.be/5fLKfEIJpB4
    Thanks for the video Jon! That sounds like it would be a good combination for my build. The good thing is, I already have some of the premium parts like the Weber's and SSI heat exchangers. I just need to decide on which way to go with the motor and start accumulating parts and get the ball rolling. 180 hp sure sounds like the sweet spot for a SWB car.

  3. #13
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    So Jon1966 likes what I recommend . I know a bigger engine is possible , but this is practical and sensible for a '66 and won't devalue the original engine case and car . Plus , why make it complex and exotic living in Alaska ?

  4. #14
    Senior Member 62S-R-S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richy View Post
    ..Plus , why make it complex and exotic living in Alaska ?

    Well..a motor that makes ample heat in harsh conditions is a winning hand.


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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BO_yCNtzr0

  5. #15
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    Hey Josh,
    it’s a very nice project….Actually I’m working on 911E with 2.0l engine. If you do not want to go to far I would recommend you use high compression pistons like the S and the E –cam. It works nice….

    Personally I use for my rebuild pistons from Wössner, you can bore your cylinders and refresh it. Moreover, I use some modified cams, they are a little bit “sharper” than the OEM E cam. The engine case is freshly bored and with an oil bypass modification…

  6. #16
    Okay, one opinion from the old guys forum. My first Porsche was a 65 built 66MY, 130hp, would run 130mph with no problem. Short comings on the car was lack of rear sway bar, didn't like the Solex nor the Nadella half shafts, I upgraded to CV shafts, Porsche offered a kit at the time. I liked the balance of the car, enough power. I'd stay stock on the rebuild with the exceptions of Carbs, Koni shocks, deep sixes and 185/70 CN36s and a nice set of sway bars. Like I said, I'm older and appreciate the balance of the early cars with a few exceptions. Add a Bosch CD box.
    Good luck and get it back on the road next summer.

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Elferhelfer View Post
    Hey Josh,
    it’s a very nice project….Actually I’m working on 911E with 2.0l engine. If you do not want to go to far I would recommend you use high compression pistons like the S and the E –cam. It works nice….

    Personally I use for my rebuild pistons from Wössner, you can bore your cylinders and refresh it. Moreover, I use some modified cams, they are a little bit “sharper” than the OEM E cam. The engine case is freshly bored and with an oil bypass modification…
    Thank you for this. My only thoughts are that my cylinders have quite a few broken fins, which I think means I'd have to replace them anyhow. I do plan to do the oil by-pass modification. This week I am planning to pull the head studs with help from my Porsche mechanic friend, so we'll see what he suggests for the rebuild.

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
    Okay, one opinion from the old guys forum. My first Porsche was a 65 built 66MY, 130hp, would run 130mph with no problem. Short comings on the car was lack of rear sway bar, didn't like the Solex nor the Nadella half shafts, I upgraded to CV shafts, Porsche offered a kit at the time. I liked the balance of the car, enough power. I'd stay stock on the rebuild with the exceptions of Carbs, Koni shocks, deep sixes and 185/70 CN36s and a nice set of sway bars. Like I said, I'm older and appreciate the balance of the early cars with a few exceptions. Add a Bosch CD box.
    Good luck and get it back on the road next summer.
    I do agree with you Rusty, when the car was on the road I never had much problem getting it up over 100mph and then some, don't tell my dad. The good news is, my dad did do quite a bit of upgrades over the years, CV shafts, SSI's, Italian webers, Koni shocks, etc. I certainly appreciate your advice and thats the plan, hopefully back on the road next summer.

  9. #19
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    Since you already have Webers , get some S heads or '69 heads with the bigger valves and enlarge the intake and exhaust ports . If the pistons and cylinders are usable . enlarge the valve pockets and your good to go . You will not be disappointed . Have Ollies Engineering and Research do the machine work .

  10. #20
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    I would keep the cylinder spigots intact and hang on to your original heads. If you need new P&C go with LN Engineering Nickies and JE or Mahle Pistons in your choice of CR. 9.5:1 or 9.8:1 will keep you from needing to twin plug and you can go up to their 87.5mm P&C without machining the spigots. 87.5mm and a 66mm stroke will give you close to a 2.4 liter displacement. Buy some 2.2T heads that don’t have the injection ports (if they do just weld or plug them shut) and if you want the high end screamer go with an S or Mod-S cam and open your ports to S specs, or get a Solex or Mod-Solex or E cam grind and leave your stock 32/32 heads alone and have a nice engine with more torque and power down lower in the rev range. Just make sure you do the oil bypass mod and upgrade your tensioners while your in there and use ARP rod bolts. I don’t think the aluminum cases had head stud issues? Also, you will need to have your distributor recurved for the new cam grind. That car is super light and with the short wheelbase you would have a blast with either of those options and not be stressing the 50+ year old components too much. Looking forward to hearing more about your build!
    Oliver
    71’ 911T Coupe
    72’ Land Rover Series III 88”
    Early 911S Registry #3663

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