Mecanical vs Hydraulic tensioner

[Jon B]

Greetings, am running a 2.0S MY1968 with original tensioners. I wonder if I keep the original system, or...

Xavier, I'd be very surprised if your 68 engine still has original tensioners, which were the open reservoir type.
I agree with the recommendations for 930 tensioners and upgrading the idler arms. Also make sure that the original rubber chain rails have been replaced.
If your engine still has original 68 idler arms or rubber rails, you might want to pull a rocker arm to make sure the 68 non-bushed versions were upgraded as well.

Jon B.
Vista, CA

[raspy2point2]

+1 for the 930 tensioners (my tech calls them 053) and the wide idler arms with copper bushings and the safety clamps on the rod sticking out of the tensioner. Had it that way for over 20 years without a problem

[Xavier PJB]

Thank you very much for all your feedback, very valuable - as usual on this wonderful board.
I will soon remove the covers and will inform you of the findings and the upgrade I'll make (930 + seems to be the way)

Any references for the wide idler arms with copper bushings ? Or are these standard alongside with the 930 tensioner ?

Cheers
X

[raspy2point2]

I think all wide idler arms come with copper bushings. the ones without bushings are factory issued from the past. The idler arms without the bushings would gall or scratch the post they were on and cause a failure of the tensioner.

[gled49]

I guess no one has had a non bushed idler sprockets (chain wheel) seize on the axle of an idler arm. They were early parts maybe up to 69.

[Xavier PJB]

Ok, So this is what I have in my 20S engine :

[tom1394racing]

I would add the safety clamps

[Xavier PJB]

All right, where to source please Tom ? Any place in Europe ?

[tom1394racing]

I can supply them. PM me with your email for details.

[Xavier PJB]

Not much oil on your engine Tom...

PM sent.