Greetings,
am running a 2.0S MY1968 with original tensioners. I wonder if I keep the original system, or should I upgrade to better version of the mechanical ones (Stomsky?) or go hydraulic ?
Please share your thoughts with me.
X
Greetings,
am running a 2.0S MY1968 with original tensioners. I wonder if I keep the original system, or should I upgrade to better version of the mechanical ones (Stomsky?) or go hydraulic ?
Please share your thoughts with me.
X
O-G 26 - Early911S 2407
Some of your choice may depend on what you do with your car. If it’s a race engine that will be rebuilt or serviced regularly then the tensioner type could vary. If it’s a street engine, then I always default to what Porsche developed for longevity and to fix design flaws, and that was the hydraulic pressure fed system.
1969 911 E #824
If you’re interested in maintaining the original look, you could go with the later style wide bushed idler arms and the 930 type tensioners with guards. Pretty bulletproof and maintains the original look.
Tom Butler
1973 RSR Clone
1970 911E
914-6 GT Clone in Progress
I use my swb on street/rallyes (closed roads) and some track days.
Yes I would like to retain original look. 930 tensioners might be a good option - there are several types of 930 it seems - any references please ?
Cheers
O-G 26 - Early911S 2407
I would follow Tom's advice . Is it an early car with aluminum timing chain housings and covers ? If it is you are not using pressure fed tensioners .
I'll remove the cover and see what is in. I have made a serious research on the board and there are debates (and good laugh) since 2001 on Mech vs Hyd.
O-G 26 - Early911S 2407
Xavier, I'd be very surprised if your 68 engine still has original tensioners, which were the open reservoir type.
I agree with the recommendations for 930 tensioners and upgrading the idler arms. Also make sure that the original rubber chain rails have been replaced.
If your engine still has original 68 idler arms or rubber rails, you might want to pull a rocker arm to make sure the 68 non-bushed versions were upgraded as well.
Jon B.
Vista, CA
+1 for the 930 tensioners (my tech calls them 053) and the wide idler arms with copper bushings and the safety clamps on the rod sticking out of the tensioner. Had it that way for over 20 years without a problem
- Chris-Early S Registry#205
- '70 911S Tangerine
- '68 911L Euro Ossi Blue
Thank you very much for all your feedback, very valuable - as usual on this wonderful board.
I will soon remove the covers and will inform you of the findings and the upgrade I'll make (930 + seems to be the way)
Any references for the wide idler arms with copper bushings ? Or are these standard alongside with the 930 tensioner ?
Cheers
X
O-G 26 - Early911S 2407
I think all wide idler arms come with copper bushings. the ones without bushings are factory issued from the past. The idler arms without the bushings would gall or scratch the post they were on and cause a failure of the tensioner.
- Chris-Early S Registry#205
- '70 911S Tangerine
- '68 911L Euro Ossi Blue