I looked it up it‘s the 12000 rpm type
I looked it up it‘s the 12000 rpm type
George .... you forgot 3 power magnifying lens
..... You will be amazed at how much helpful it is to see..........
And also if you buy 2.5 power reading glasses tor grinding down your butt welds....
Right. So:
So far:
-Clean more,
-No beads, spaced welds
-Thinner wire (I have 0.8mm)
-Backing close as can be.
-Grind flat often.
-Get a better welder (I'll keep that for last...)
-Magnifying lens for welding helmet/grinding (although I have reading glasses for grinding).
I'll get there for my retirement...
I just could'nt help myself..
Mark
Missing that important bit that 2 parts need to be perfect fit, equal and NO gap. Like in tig welding. If you do, IMO no need to use thinner than 0.8mm wire.
- Ville -
1967 911 Slate Grey/red, fully restored + 66' "r-ish" hotrod project
Certainly no bead action, just one quick spot after another. Half a second at a time. As mentioned a nice tight fit of the two panels is important. Also you may find a copper backer that is really thin so it conforms to the shape. Clamping with vice grips along the panels keeps everything lined up until you get tacks in place. When it comes to grinding later having everything on the same plane makes it so you can pretty much hide the repair. One last tip, radius all your corners on the patch, sharp corners are much more prone to blowing out.
Uli, I love Dotco too!
Brad Davis
RGruppe #691
Early 911S #1547
There are numerous videos on Youtube about welding thin gauge body sheet metal with a wire feed, most show a good approach to it and are informative, check them out. This is just one of many. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FeMJ-SULCaw
Current fleet, mostly rubbish automobiles and other assorted junk.
Armature welder here as well. I have read, and had good results, to space your welds far apart. I.E. first weld at one end, second weld in the middle, third weld at the far end. Repeat and repeat and repea........
1969 911S
1969 Datsun 2000...worth less, but more valuable
Use thin wire and listen to your weld, the sound tells you when you are getting good penetration and can move the torch. Think about what panel has more heat sink potential (mass, size) and bias your weld more to that side to avoid melting through. I tack the panel in place then do about an inch at a time and cool the weld before moving on. Put a light on the other side to see any holes after grinding and fill them. I always brush some of that POR15 type paint over the finished weld and wipe it off with a rag to fill any unnoticed porosities and stop oxidation, sandblasting the weld first is better. Harbor Freight sells clamps with tabs that hold panels together for butt welds with a correct gap, get a set or two they are inexpensive. Argon mix is better than co2 for shielding.
Last edited by 66S; 02-02-2021 at 02:16 PM.
30 years welding here. Use a .030 wire gas properly set according to manufacturer spec (I know most don't have it high enough and it weezes out. As others have wisely offered, CLEAN the steel first. It should shine. Next on lighter/thin metal like this (using magnets and clamps), spot an area, move 6" spot, move 6" spot. Do this until the panel is laser straight. Then, I use an old copper CPU cooler on the back side / near the weld to suck up the heat while I take my time spot welding in the rest. Grind smooth, it shoudl be perfect. Shine a light on the back side - ensure no pinholes, if so mark and fill with another spot. This is my process on thin steel.