Wrapped up on the intake sides:
Once complete and checked all drains, gaskets and torque specs are good to go, oil in!
Buttoning everything up:
another:
I fit the air cleaner back on, set the timing, etc.. - wow, she screams. So much fun. I will say the hot air inlet hose....a bit awkward routing that thing. I'll fuss with it a little bit more and check my FSM to see how it is routed.
Thank's for listening along to my journal/thread!
Good morning! I am having a small issue with the distributor body just under the "OEL" port that you dial/spin to oil the distributor shaft (OEM Bosch 001) hitting the mounting nut that is holding the distributor down. The most I can advance at idle is 5-6 degrees BTDC before the body of the distributor hits this nut.
Runs fine, yes - but it doesn't "feel" optimal on the rpm range.
How on earth does one deal with this? The later 1971 911T distributor I had on there, didn't have this OEL port and therefore was able to advance as much as needed.
It's hard to tell even with no nut on there if it still wouldn't hit the M8 mounting stud. Am I missing something?
Thank you!
Fixed - silly for me to even ask, as I just lifted it out, moved it a tooth and solved the problem (for those that may hit this in the future). Just pull it out, move it a tooth counterclockwise and re-install.
Quick update / Question: The car is really getting dialed in and I have chased out just about every gremlin. However, the only remaining issue I am facing is on the engine..... the car loves wide open throttle. At 10% throttle, she gallops/surges and has some light popping. Second, going down hill, there is light backfiring but not bad.
It goes like this, 1st gear, idle great....then letting out the clutch...smooth..then applying 1-5% throttle its smooth, then 5-25% throttle, its surging/galloping with an occational pop/miss, 25% throttle to wide open - smooth and powerful experience. Shift, into 2nd gear, same experience. Then, if cruising on the freeway (which is 10-25% throttle), here we go again.....
Things I have checked:
1. Timing is set - and is spot on. (rebuilt distributor)
2. Synchrometer is 4 on every throttle body and sync'd side to side. Possibly my lean-drop could be "tighter" but at idle - the car is happy at 900 rpm (fluctuates +- 10rpm).
3. The only other thing I have touched is the valves, when I did the adjustment. I'm guessing with the wear/stretch on the threads of the adjusters, using snapgap on subpar adjusters may be the culprit, but I double checked the gap before I buttoned it all up.
Thoughts?
Last edited by dmaddox; 04-01-2021 at 12:28 PM.
What size idle jets?
Early S Registry member #90
R Gruppe member #138
Fort Worth Tx.
30mm main venturis
125 main fuel jets
F26 emulsion tubes
180 main air correction jets
55 idle fuel jets
If I were doing this in my shop the very first thing I would try is #57 idle jets. If no improvement then maybe wrong direction, but if improvement, then you know you're going right way. Often it's just quicker to try something. No matter what, you get more information.
Early S Registry member #90
R Gruppe member #138
Fort Worth Tx.
Great tip. The reason I am pointing at the valve adjustment that I performed is that 1. the adjusters didn't accept the snapgaps very well, I had to muscle through it. and 2. prior to the valve adjustment, the car (while it was not as smooth/powerful at full throttle like it is now), also didn't have this behavior.
Since my oil is fresh and I don't want lose it all, if I drain just the block, will that be sufficient? Or, do I have to drain the whole thing? (not sure of the plumbing).
I have also read that some people that do valve adjustments with fresh oil in - tip the car from side to side and don't drain any oil. Could this be done tipping up the right side, or would the tank drain into the engine?
I apologize for these silly questions - but I am learning a gob here. This, is my effort of "trying something". I am curious however, when idle appears to be great (I am about two full turns-ish out on each idle mix screw) and the car seems to idle fine!
edit: Wouldn't just turning the idle mixes out 1/2 turn at each curb the issue, if in fact the idle jets were possibly too small?
Last edited by dmaddox; 04-01-2021 at 01:47 PM.
If you suspect your valve adjustment changed things then by all means go back and verify it. (I've said before, first mechanics rule, go back to the last thing you did before the problem occurred) I'm not familiar with the method you used (I just use feeler gauges) but yes, you can just jack up one side and not have to drain out oil.
To a degree backing out the idle screws can have a small effect, but simply changing the idle jets is the most definitive method. Like most shops we also make use of a air/fuel ratio meter to drive the car and read the mixture, but often it just comes down to make a change and see what the results are. Emulsion tube guesses and changes are really fun, but with a stock set-up you really shouldn't have to get into that. I suggest the idle jet because that is not an uncommon change due to todays fuels.
Early S Registry member #90
R Gruppe member #138
Fort Worth Tx.
Great information!!! Seriously, thank you Ed.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote