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Thread: High Beams Always On

  1. #11
    So no power to terminal 86. Tested with headlight switch on and off. Also, removed the fuses for the high beams so I could reconnect the batteries. When I turn on the headlight switch, the low beams don't work as will so does not isolate the high/low beam switch on the steering column?

    Chris

  2. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    CT
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    2,895
    You flasher stalk is acting like it it pulled back to flash all the time. The Pelican thread referenced earlier in you post should point you in the right direction.
    Tom Butler
    1973 RSR Clone
    1970 911E
    914-6 GT Clone in Progress

  3. #13
    I find it unusual (not impossible) that your turn signal hi-lo beam switch went bad overnight, to this malfunction while not even being used. Unless your switch has already been replaced with the crappy superseded one sometime in the past. The original switches used up to 72 were a well made switch that rarely failed, however they have been superseded years ago to the junk switch that is all you can get nowadays. I have an old style spare for just that reason, because if any of mine ever do go bad I don't want to have use the new style one. So do as Tom just suggested and if you have to replace it just realize this will be an ongoing problem. Unfortunately.
    Early S Registry member #90
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  4. #14
    The newer style switch gets a bad reputation due to the engineering of the headlight circuit. There is no relays in the system. The job of the relay is to transfer the high current of the circuit to save the switch. This is why most install a pair of relays on the 74-89 cars. It all but eliminated the problem. By the switch transferring the high current, the contacts arc. Overtime the arcing welds the spring contacts together. This sounds like what has happened in you’re case. Testing the circuit with a wiring diagram will say for sure. Or you could simply plug a know. Good switch in if you have one to rule or confirm the switch itself.

  5. #15
    Entirely correct, but there never were relays in the system, yet the old version switches with metal tabs had a much lower failure rate, but yes, relays especially help the newer switches.
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

  6. #16
    So my flasher stalk is original and was surprised that it failed suddenly without using it. I have been in the processes of reinstalling the engine so perhaps I hit the stalk while leaning into the car and messing with the shifter or pedal cluster. This weekend, when I reconnected the batteries, I found that the high beams where on. I pushed the high beam flasher stalk forward and the high beams went out when they should have technically should have come on. After a test drive, I noticed that they where on even regardless of the position so something must have broke.

    I went on line and saw the newer style switch was plastic and very disappointed. I did a brief search and found on this forum that there was a person that restored the original style switches but at the time of the post, it was taking about a year! Does anyone know of a source that repairs these? One of the earlier post on this thread attached a link to a discussion on a possible fix but the fix appears to be for a later type or the newer plastic type. I believe the one that I have would require disassembly and I don't know what would happen.

    I'm not sure the proper way to test the switch but it seems as if I disconnect the multi-connector and put a meter on terminal 56a (the white wire) of the flasher stalk, if I have 12 volts, then I've found my problem. Correct? If this is correct, would it make since that if were able to somehow disconnect the white wire from either the multi connector or the flasher stalk, then the high beams would go off and the low beams would operate normally. If this is a correct assumption, then perhaps this is a work around for now until I can find someone to repair the original. Its a thought. I know there is no easy way to disconnect the white wire other than cutting it.

    Thoughts?

    Chris
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  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by edmayo View Post
    Then pull the relay and see if you have power to term. 86 with everything off, that term. gets power from term. 57 of the headlight switch which it should only get if the switch is on.
    Ed - You mentioned that I should be getting power from terminal 57 of the headlight switch. I pulled the switch this morning and the wire leading from term 57 is severely comprised. This appears to send power to the relay. If this wire is bad, how does this effect the system?

    Chris

  8. #18
    I believe if 57 isn't supplying power to switch the change over relay it might allow the one beam to stay on. Do you mean the wire is burned, did it burn other wires in the harness next to it?
    Early S Registry member #90
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    Fort Worth Tx.

  9. #19
    So I finally found the problem and was able to fix it or at least temporarily. The contact for the flasher stalk had bent as was touching. As with most electrical problems, you chase your tail a lot. When I messed with the headlight switch, the lights started to work properly. The wire on term 57 was frayed and I was concerned that it wasn't delivering power but it is working. As messed with the stalk the arbitrarily come on and then go off. Sometimes tapping the stalk lightly would make it go off. So after a few hours trying things, I finally found a tab deep inside the stalk for the flasher. I was able to get a screwdriver in there and gently bend the tab back.

    Thanks for all the advice.

    Chris

  10. #20
    Glad you solved it.
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

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