73.5 CIS fuel line question

[jc4me2]

I am trying to get my long stalled CIS engine rebuild back together, and am having trouble getting the hard input line from the fuel filter set on the fuel distributor bung. I know there is a Porsche tool for it. Any other ideas? I assume heat is a bad idea? I could also just pull the distributor and tap it into the line carefully held in a vice. That is how I did the injector lines.

Thanks!
Jordan

[HarryD]

This is what I did to replace a nylon line for my CIS.

Note the McMaster lines listed have thinner walls than the Porsche Lines. As I recall, Cohline does offer the correct sizes.

From the Bird:

"The line is black nylon 11, this is the same material as the old line. The temperature, pressure and chemical rating information may be found on the McMaster-Carr web site. You can order on-line with a credit card.

3mm ID x 5mm OD: stk number 50405K12@$0.26/ft 100ft coil (I believe this is the size to the WUR)

4mm ID x 6mm OD; stk number 50405K13@$0.31/ft by the ft. (this is the fuel distributor to injector size) NOTE: This thin wall may cause pulsing.

6mm ID x 8mm OD; stk number 50405K14@$0.43/ft by the ft. (this is size from fuel filter to distributor if this line is plastic on your car)

I also ordered the following collars to make the "substitution" installation tools:

Metric One-Piece Clamp-On Collar Black Oxide Finish, 5mm bore, 16 mm OD, 9mm Width; stk number 57445K22@$2.19ea

Metric One-Piece Clamp-On Collar Black Oxide Finish, 6mm bore, 18mm OD, 9mm Width; stk number 57445K23@$2.29ea

Metric One-Piece Clamp-On Collar Black oxide Finish, 8mm bore, 24 mm OD, 9mm Width; stk number 57445K24@$2.24ea

Old line is burned off fittings (per the shop manual?!). You could probably cut it off your old WUR if you have enough line slack. Slit the collar at the narrow neck with a dremel abrasive disk or a fine hacksaw so each breaks into two pieces. Wrap a bit of fine sand paper (for enhanced friction) around fuel line then put collar around sandpaper and line and tighten set screw. Make sure only a small portion of the nylon line extends out of collar. Nylon may be softened by wet heat; put end of tubing in boiling water. Dry heat will make it shrink. Clamp the collar with vise grips (the set screw doesn't privide enough clamping); then insert tubing onto end of barbed fitting and tap the side of the vise grips with a soft faced hammer to drive on. WUR needs to be clamped/arranged so that you can push or drive on the tubing. One can't have too much of the tubing protruding from the collar (otherwise it will buckle) so the collar may have to be moved backup the tubing a couple of times as the tubing is driven on. Buy extra line to practice with, you'll need it and its cheap."

[thanks Jim Sims for the info]

I wasted a bit of tube perfecting the technique.

Hope this helps